No, a dado stack is not your answer. And most jobsite tablesaws don't take them anyways cause the arbor is too short. If you're making a bunch of these you'll get much better results by milling your stock on a router table with a set of Shaker rail and stile bits.
I'd rather not talk about that publicly. I'm in a really high cost of living area. This is all fairly expensive uniboard hpl melamine and expensive hardware. So to a lot of people it might sound like it was to much when it was in line with competition like California closets. But I offered better and more lighting options, grain matched doors, etc.
Very sexy. Excellent work on the veneer grain continuity. Love the toe kick tray, even if I can't imagine what I'd ever use something like that for... EDIT: realize its not veneer.
Sign up. Don't worry about the creativity aspect. Ideas will come as you gain skills. Yes, your space will impose constraints on what you can do at home, but rare is the woodworker who has all the space they want. Acquire some basic hand tools and a drill. Find a maker space! I won't say woodworking is for *everyone*, but it's for *anyone* who feels drawn to it and wants to learn.
Your Ditra mat shouldn't have gone down yet. Pause and think about the remaining work processes before you continue with your flooring. How's your electrical, plumbing, HVAC? The foreground wire makes me think your electrical rough-in isn't finished. And while it may not be strictly necessary—ie if you were pulling them up thru a wall—your heating cold lead and thermostat wires absolutely need to go in sched 40 pvc conduit.
Electrical and plumbing rough in are done. There is radiator heat on the first floor. I removed the radiator from this room and am hoping the floor heat is sufficient, if it isn’t I can take from a 2nd floor furnace directly above and it will come down opposite the toilet. But that would be far in the future and away from where wires lay. I have a friend doing electrical and Sheetrock elsewhere in the house. I got ahead and don’t care to wait. The wire you see is from an extension cord to a work light. Plan is to tile, grout, then cover with paper and foam squares to finish sheet rock, bead board, other finishes. The studs on the wall with the electrical controls are flat enough, (1/8” maximum offset). Since my friend is doing electrical and said the conduit isn’t necessary it’s not there. I could finagle it on after the fact before I set in stone. If so, would the hearing wire AND both temperature sensor wires go in it?
Yup, heating wire and sensor can go in the same conduit. In fact I just verified this the other day as on a wire packaging it said not to do this (but in the official Schluter doc vid it says you can)—as of a few years ago, it was fine to run them in the same conduit.
Flooring manufacturers typically sell repair kits with a tintable liquid epoxy for little touch ups—like fixing a ding or a scratch. Even then, sometimes its hard to keep the stuff where it needs to be, and the results aren't always so great. But there's a product called MH Ready Patch that you can tint and then work into the gaps. Once you have them filled, you'll want to make sure you restore the bevels—maybe with the tip of a nail—and wipe up the excess.
That's really unacceptable work, but the chances of you getting them to pull it up and redo it are pretty slim. Is your insurance footing the bill for this? Often they use the cheapest possible contractors. You have a legitimate grievance, and it's a big deal. But do a few things before you talk to them, because if they think this is a finished job, they are going to try and make excuses.
The tile/grout/silicone should never be considered waterproof. Water will find its way below the tile. The shower's waterproofing and slope under the finish material is what is important.
Lol, I shouldn't rely on flex-seal then? My pan is good and the Schluter stuff is done correctly, so I'm expecting the system to work as designed. But the ability to redo it in the future seems important, as I doubt that EKE strip is going to look the same in ten years...
My advice is don’t do it.. I bought a bunch also liking the clean look. In reality, it’s very difficult to get it to look good. I was going to use it floor to wall and wall to wall but now only going to use floor to wall where I already have it installed. And on top of that, I will likely need to caulk over the joints as they didn’t sit flush like I had hoped. It doesn’t do anything for water proofing. In fact, I think a caulk would be better.
This customer can tell plumb and level from a distance as well or better than I can. He's an engineer and he wants a level (and planar) floor. It's costing him, and he knows it. Original floor was off by 1.25" over 7 ft...
This can’t be screamed from the foot cops loud enough. When I give a materials list to a colleague for the next day, they look at me like I’m a magician. No, I just have a catalogue and/or a phone.
It's piss-poor finish carpentry, but coping is moldings takes practice. I've botched stuff like this before, but I at least took the time to caulk and fill so the painters weren't swearing at me or the homeowner posting on Reddit...
In California you legally have to quote flat rate to residential customers. Not sure where this guy so not sure if it’s applicable but I’m an HVAC contractor and I have unfortunately under and over quoted jobs and you can’t change anything unless the scope of work changes on your end or you had a clause specifying if x occurs then we charge however much more.
Don't do it. Best case scenario is they want the miles/points, worst case scenario they pull some shady chargeback trick and you're left holding your...
Do you honestly think that there are people who can’t fly an airplane without a license? Do you think there are people who can’t sell houses unless they have a real estate license? Do you think there are surgeons who can’t perform complicated surgeries unless they have gotten their medical license from the state board? Sit down. I have zero respect for people like the OP who flaunt their work with no licensing. And there aren’t many insurance companies who will insure you unless you lie to them if you don’t have a valid contractors license.
Flaunt?? You haven’t even seen my work. Much of it these days is actually permitted, but it just doesn’t flow thru me. And when it’s not permitted, I’m still having licensed tradesmen doing the relevant parts.
Thank you for that. I know I need one, and the process is underway (as I think I made clear). I really was looking for insights on things had changed for people, whether they were happier, making more cash, etc.
No, a dado stack is not your answer. And most jobsite tablesaws don't take them anyways cause the arbor is too short. If you're making a bunch of these you'll get much better results by milling your stock on a router table with a set of Shaker rail and stile bits.
How are you planning on finishing these anyways?
My man, why would you even work on something if the first check bounced?
The way you really change a foundation is:
Why move the house? No basement?
I'd rather not talk about that publicly. I'm in a really high cost of living area. This is all fairly expensive uniboard hpl melamine and expensive hardware. So to a lot of people it might sound like it was to much when it was in line with competition like California closets. But I offered better and more lighting options, grain matched doors, etc.
Just learned something; thought that was veneer.
Very sexy. Excellent work on the veneer grain continuity. Love the toe kick tray, even if I can't imagine what I'd ever use something like that for... EDIT: realize its not veneer.
That'll damage the wood surface, I suspect. But it looks perfect for restoring old windows—cutting away old glazing and scraping off excess paint...
Sign up. Don't worry about the creativity aspect. Ideas will come as you gain skills. Yes, your space will impose constraints on what you can do at home, but rare is the woodworker who has all the space they want. Acquire some basic hand tools and a drill. Find a maker space! I won't say woodworking is for *everyone*, but it's for *anyone* who feels drawn to it and wants to learn.
Especially on a 5 sq ft shower…. As if that shit doesn’t warm up in 1.5 seconds
17sf curbless shower. A guest bathroom that will probably be used 20 times a year.
So suppliers and contractors can make more money off clients. It always seemed like a dumb idea to me.
In fact I tried to talk him out of it...
Can you move one of the splices further 1 knob?
I could, but they're already glued in and tested. Spoke to Schluter and they gave me the green light.
Your Ditra mat shouldn't have gone down yet. Pause and think about the remaining work processes before you continue with your flooring. How's your electrical, plumbing, HVAC? The foreground wire makes me think your electrical rough-in isn't finished. And while it may not be strictly necessary—ie if you were pulling them up thru a wall—your heating cold lead and thermostat wires absolutely need to go in sched 40 pvc conduit.
Electrical and plumbing rough in are done. There is radiator heat on the first floor. I removed the radiator from this room and am hoping the floor heat is sufficient, if it isn’t I can take from a 2nd floor furnace directly above and it will come down opposite the toilet. But that would be far in the future and away from where wires lay. I have a friend doing electrical and Sheetrock elsewhere in the house. I got ahead and don’t care to wait. The wire you see is from an extension cord to a work light. Plan is to tile, grout, then cover with paper and foam squares to finish sheet rock, bead board, other finishes. The studs on the wall with the electrical controls are flat enough, (1/8” maximum offset). Since my friend is doing electrical and said the conduit isn’t necessary it’s not there. I could finagle it on after the fact before I set in stone. If so, would the hearing wire AND both temperature sensor wires go in it?
Yup, heating wire and sensor can go in the same conduit. In fact I just verified this the other day as on a wire packaging it said not to do this (but in the official Schluter doc vid it says you can)—as of a few years ago, it was fine to run them in the same conduit.
Replace? No. Fur out the studs to bring them into the same plane? Quite possibly.
That's gotta come off. Soften it with some acetone.
Whatever turns you on, but straight screws are nice...
Mushrooms?
'how long will it take to install tile in my bathroom?"
Wait, you heard my conversation?
I wonder if there's a fluid to fill?
Flooring manufacturers typically sell repair kits with a tintable liquid epoxy for little touch ups—like fixing a ding or a scratch. Even then, sometimes its hard to keep the stuff where it needs to be, and the results aren't always so great. But there's a product called MH Ready Patch that you can tint and then work into the gaps. Once you have them filled, you'll want to make sure you restore the bevels—maybe with the tip of a nail—and wipe up the excess.
That's really unacceptable work, but the chances of you getting them to pull it up and redo it are pretty slim. Is your insurance footing the bill for this? Often they use the cheapest possible contractors. You have a legitimate grievance, and it's a big deal. But do a few things before you talk to them, because if they think this is a finished job, they are going to try and make excuses.
The tile/grout/silicone should never be considered waterproof. Water will find its way below the tile. The shower's waterproofing and slope under the finish material is what is important.
Lol, I shouldn't rely on flex-seal then? My pan is good and the Schluter stuff is done correctly, so I'm expecting the system to work as designed. But the ability to redo it in the future seems important, as I doubt that EKE strip is going to look the same in ten years...
My advice is don’t do it.. I bought a bunch also liking the clean look. In reality, it’s very difficult to get it to look good. I was going to use it floor to wall and wall to wall but now only going to use floor to wall where I already have it installed. And on top of that, I will likely need to caulk over the joints as they didn’t sit flush like I had hoped. It doesn’t do anything for water proofing. In fact, I think a caulk would be better.
That's helpful. This is my first Schluter shower and there's a lot of new stuff to deal with, so I think I'm going to omit this element. Thank you.
You don't level a floor, you flatten it.
This customer can tell plumb and level from a distance as well or better than I can. He's an engineer and he wants a level (and planar) floor. It's costing him, and he knows it. Original floor was off by 1.25" over 7 ft...
Way better. NXT level plus. Ardex.
Ok, check. Next time. Fucking Sika shit is garbage.
Just jump up and down a couple times to make your point. Absurd work.
This can’t be screamed from the foot cops loud enough. When I give a materials list to a colleague for the next day, they look at me like I’m a magician. No, I just have a catalogue and/or a phone.
Yeah they'd have either a fancy jig to do the relief or an expensive chisel and Japanese saw....
Wallabot.
It's piss-poor finish carpentry, but coping is moldings takes practice. I've botched stuff like this before, but I at least took the time to caulk and fill so the painters weren't swearing at me or the homeowner posting on Reddit...
In California you legally have to quote flat rate to residential customers. Not sure where this guy so not sure if it’s applicable but I’m an HVAC contractor and I have unfortunately under and over quoted jobs and you can’t change anything unless the scope of work changes on your end or you had a clause specifying if x occurs then we charge however much more.
Come on, you can't structure a T&M contract in CA?
Don't do it. Best case scenario is they want the miles/points, worst case scenario they pull some shady chargeback trick and you're left holding your...
Do you honestly think that there are people who can’t fly an airplane without a license? Do you think there are people who can’t sell houses unless they have a real estate license? Do you think there are surgeons who can’t perform complicated surgeries unless they have gotten their medical license from the state board? Sit down. I have zero respect for people like the OP who flaunt their work with no licensing. And there aren’t many insurance companies who will insure you unless you lie to them if you don’t have a valid contractors license.
Flaunt?? You haven’t even seen my work. Much of it these days is actually permitted, but it just doesn’t flow thru me. And when it’s not permitted, I’m still having licensed tradesmen doing the relevant parts.
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Thank you for that. I know I need one, and the process is underway (as I think I made clear). I really was looking for insights on things had changed for people, whether they were happier, making more cash, etc.