The car payment isn't the problem. It's the insurance. the cheapest option for insurance is $580 a month. And the highest going from anywhere up to $1,800 -$2,000 a month.
Get an insurance quote on a Mazdaspeed car before you go any further. And I’d be wary of buying a used one of those - it’s the kind of car people buy to beat on. Like buying a used WRX.
My credit is a little higher but not by much. I called the guy and I am waiting for a response back about the new car that I am wanting to get. The car I am wanting is $12k.
You’ll need some cash down, I’m not aware of any lenders that would finance 150+% loan to value, especially on a $12k used car. I’m not a finance manager though so seek other advice to be certain.
What do you mean by dropping? Like dropping under MSRP? Nah I don't see that. If you mean dealers aren't charging 5-10k over then yeah I've noticed it. In the states it started dropping a couple years ago.
I have a few mugs I’ve received from them over the years. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve blocked domains, phone numbers, unsubscribed, been rude to, etc. and they are relentless. So much so that I aggressively tell anyone and everyone who will listen to me (that’s in a position to be targeted by this shit) to remove them from consideration.
There's no good option aside from earning more income to stay ahead of it. You have a great interest rate compared to most people in your shoes so this should be manageable if you can make all payments on time for a few more years.
What are you planning on buying that's much cheaper than your current car? I can almost guarantee it's not worth the transaction cost and negative equity to get out of the current car if it's in okay condition.
Practice makes perfect and you have to come to terms with the horrendous turning radius on modern trucks. It’ll get easier. Just recognize that you can’t always park up front with the smaller vehicles. It’s good though, more steps and less door dings parking at the back.
I’ve checked under the deck. Around the pulleys. Nothing is blocking anything from spinning. I kept the hood up and started it; when I engaged the blade, I noticed the belt shakes left to right pretty violently when it dies and makes the screeching noise.
I could be misremembering, but I think the Coyote 5.0L came out in the 2011 model year. I would definitely pay a bit more to get a 5.0L vs. the old 4.6L in the 2010 models.
That would be an acceptable deal to me, but I’d wager you won’t get much traction being that far away. They’ll likely ignore you or continually forget until you show up in person.
I read a few Toyota guys on here say Venzas wouldn’t move a month ago. So I went looking for one for our fleet. Nobody wanted to negotiate on them and there very few on the ground near me. I ended up giving up but thought it was funny every place I talked to was willing to put big discounts on Tundras. Especially 2wd models.
Seems unusually good for this market to me, but I’ve never leased one. I just bought two Camry LEs for $26k each so you paying $14k for a 3 year lease seems pretty reasonable.
The car payment isn't the problem. It's the insurance. the cheapest option for insurance is $580 a month. And the highest going from anywhere up to $1,800 -$2,000 a month.
Get an insurance quote on a Mazdaspeed car before you go any further. And I’d be wary of buying a used one of those - it’s the kind of car people buy to beat on. Like buying a used WRX.
My credit is a little higher but not by much. I called the guy and I am waiting for a response back about the new car that I am wanting to get. The car I am wanting is $12k.
You’ll need some cash down, I’m not aware of any lenders that would finance 150+% loan to value, especially on a $12k used car. I’m not a finance manager though so seek other advice to be certain.
You can buy it out, sell it, and buy something else. It would be wasting quite a bit of money, but it is possible.
What vehicle is this? Good lord, how does a new vehicle from any manufacturer blow through two leaf springs?
I'm guessing Kia.
What Kia has leaf springs?
Get an appraisal from Carmax and give your dealer the opportunity to match or beat that offer.
Passenger version or work van? What are comparable ones being listed for?
What do you mean by dropping? Like dropping under MSRP? Nah I don't see that. If you mean dealers aren't charging 5-10k over then yeah I've noticed it. In the states it started dropping a couple years ago.
F-150
They pulled credit without you agreeing and signing anything?
That's a weird one and won't have any comps. You'll just have to shop that thing around and see what someone will pay.
What's your question?
That is literally who just called..
I have a few mugs I’ve received from them over the years. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve blocked domains, phone numbers, unsubscribed, been rude to, etc. and they are relentless. So much so that I aggressively tell anyone and everyone who will listen to me (that’s in a position to be targeted by this shit) to remove them from consideration.
There's no good option aside from earning more income to stay ahead of it. You have a great interest rate compared to most people in your shoes so this should be manageable if you can make all payments on time for a few more years.
What are you planning on buying that's much cheaper than your current car? I can almost guarantee it's not worth the transaction cost and negative equity to get out of the current car if it's in okay condition.
Practice makes perfect and you have to come to terms with the horrendous turning radius on modern trucks. It’ll get easier. Just recognize that you can’t always park up front with the smaller vehicles. It’s good though, more steps and less door dings parking at the back.
Sounds like just normal wear and tear stuff. If that's a competitive price, none of those things would scare me away from it.
Get an insurance quote first and make sure you can afford it. Anything remotely sporty is going to cost a small fortune.
If it has a manual, it’s ok. Don’t touch the automatics.
That’s an awesome deal
Have you looked under the deck and around the pulleys? Anything making a screeching noise might be easy to spot.
I’ve checked under the deck. Around the pulleys. Nothing is blocking anything from spinning. I kept the hood up and started it; when I engaged the blade, I noticed the belt shakes left to right pretty violently when it dies and makes the screeching noise.
Maybe a seized up idler pulley? That's a pretty common failure. I'd take the deck off and inspect everything that moves.
I'd get an insurance quote before making a decision. That will be pretty pricy if you're young.
That’s the first thing I did, luckily I’m not young and have never filed a claim so it’d be $42.50/month which is pretty decent in my area.
I could be misremembering, but I think the Coyote 5.0L came out in the 2011 model year. I would definitely pay a bit more to get a 5.0L vs. the old 4.6L in the 2010 models.
I'd expect you could find something cheaper somewhere besides FL. They have some of the highest doc/dealer fees in the southeast.
That would be an acceptable deal to me, but I’d wager you won’t get much traction being that far away. They’ll likely ignore you or continually forget until you show up in person.
I read a few Toyota guys on here say Venzas wouldn’t move a month ago. So I went looking for one for our fleet. Nobody wanted to negotiate on them and there very few on the ground near me. I ended up giving up but thought it was funny every place I talked to was willing to put big discounts on Tundras. Especially 2wd models.
I wouldn’t waste your time with an email. Call them directly if you want to try and get some of the legwork out of the way.
Extremely normal. You can try to negotiate the $1,600, but the other fees will be paid.
Seems unusually good for this market to me, but I’ve never leased one. I just bought two Camry LEs for $26k each so you paying $14k for a 3 year lease seems pretty reasonable.