1. That makes little sense to me outside of a hardware defect. The camera should normally warn you if it doesn't see the cards or if it can't write to them. Have you tried a factory reset? What are you using to access files on the cards? Is it just video or jpgs too? Is your firmware on the T3 up to date?

  2. It can see the cards because it won’t let me record until I have them in. I tried factory reset. I use an sd card reader attached to my laptop, which works with my other camera great. It’s both video and jpgs. It’s completely up to date. I’m stumped!

  3. Have you tried changing the folder it's saving to? Maybe the file name?

  4. As others mention it's all in the exif data. The best tool IMO is to use exiftool if you're OK with the command line.

  5. For travel I'd look at a good normal range zoom... it may overlap a bit with the 18-135 though. So we have the fuji 18-55, 16-55, the sigma 18-50, etc. I guess the real question is what would you like to do that your current kit prohibits?

  6. I considered getting the 18-55mm kit. Certainly smaller than the 18-135. My main concern is the size/weight and trying to wrangle it especially in Universal Studios. I’m not sure if the 18-55mm is better enough than the zoom I already have to add it with the overlap. I could obviously sell what I currently have if it makes sense to do so.

  7. Unless they strictly prohibit professional looking cameras... I don't think anyone would bat an eye at any lens you bring in to universal studios unless we're looking at a huge telephoto lens. Tourists are the norm there. Don't overthink it. The 18-55 will have much better IQ than the 18-135 from my experience but I dont know if the price is worth it or not for you yourself.

  8. Came from Sony apsc and even tried Sony FF while I had Fuji gear. Fuji is just more fun to use and the output requires less time in post. If you are OK sacrificing some AFC performance and don't absolutely need FF sensor, it's a great system.

  9. It's not 1:1 additive as you describe, but both are better than one or the other. Some combinations work better than others. At one point there was a chart for this but I'm not sure if fuji published one for the x-s10. Personally I wouldn't worry too much about the specific stop count and just know that IBIS is better in general... unless you're really interested in a specific lens.

  10. It is hard not to use it, given how inconsistent AF is

  11. My X-H1 AF has been mostly consistent for the things I shoot. Are you trying to do some fast sports tracking or something?

  12. I was being overly sarcastic, I exaggerated. Sorry. Still, over the years I have grown the habit of keeping my little finger on the focus wheel to fine tune when in AFS mode

  13. Haha no worries. Big fan of sarcasm but that one flew over my head. I really did not rely on AFC much with the H1 or T2. Thankfully the T5 is much better but I think Fuji will always be playing catch-up.

  14. I haven't done any scientific comparisons but I did not really like the output I got from Affinity. I bought and will stay on a standalone (non subscription) version of C1 as long as I can.

  15. Sounds like you're really looking for a parfocal lens which Fuji doesn't really have. You might look into cine lenses but they'll probably break the bank

  16. What do you mean exactly by "wondering if they support them"?

  17. I have backed up my files to Backblaze and then downloaded the app so I can download those files from my phone but when I do, I just get a picture with a black screen. Makes me wonder if they don’t support .RAF files

  18. You mean the file that you download to your phone? What are you using to open the raw?

  19. Thank you. I'll give it a try tomorrow. Really looking forward to edit these. Btw I see you have a xt5. Unrelated question but a concern is autofocus, do you experience it falling add well? I've read abs noticed today it doesn't always get the shot ( especially on the eyes) any turn around on that? Im really considering getting the xt5, but that focus might be a down point

  20. I upgraded from an x-t2 so it's a big improvement for me. one thing that throws people off is the focus indicator. When it turns green it does not mean the shot is in focus. This confuses a lot of people and I think skews the reviews a bit. Also, Fuji AF, particularly continuous AF requires a little more configuration than AF from other manufacturers. Once you figure it out it's very good. It will never beat Sony though

  21. I thought about that, and it does not make any sense to me despite what the manual says. To be clear, what you say about the green is true and the manual confirms it. What does not make any sense is that under these premises there is no indicator whatsoever of the shot being in focus

  22. I agree. My only guess is that the camera will never be confident that it has focused on what you actually want to be in focus. So the green confirmation is just saying "yeah I can focus but I'm not sure it's what you're asking for". It's odd, but worse... it's misleading. Personally I can still get plenty of great shots because I'm used to shooting Fuji and the odd quirks that come with it. Others may not have the patience =D

  23. There are other controls like shadows, highlights, WB, clarity, etc. You might download and try Fuji X Raw studio (if your cam is supported) to play around with it and not have to use the camera UI to do so.

  24. the 35XC is optically the same as the XF version, but it has more plastic and does not have the aperture ring.

  25. the crop factor is around 1.52x (depends on how you measure and calculate) but 35 is the closest you'll get.

  26. best way I've found is to go on ebay and filter by sold auctions and compare with what you're selling. If you plan to send off to a used gear site like MBP or Keh, expect to lose a good (10-20) percent of that.

  27. I haven't tried the 70-300 but the 100-400 is a great lens. If you can get over the size you will enjoy it. Keep in mind zooms are generally weaker at their longest. So the 100-400 will (probably) give you a better image at 300mm than the 70-300.

  28. Thanks, this is what I was wondering about, as most of what I plan to take is at the far end of the focal length. Might get this and then think about the 150-600 or the 150-500 tamron if I need sharper at the 400m range

  29. the 1.4TC may be a good option as well (I use it on my 50-140), though I've read a lot about the 2x not being so great

  30. Vertical tilt comes from the bottom, and it can pull outwards (away from the cam) a bit. horizontal comes from the lift side, but you need to release the latch you mention. Newer models have moved towards a push button for that. The movement will be stiff so the LCD stays in place once it's moved. Don't force anything but it's not super slick/easy really.

  31. For a walking around prime I would go with 23. 35 is too tight, 18 is too wide IMO but would be my second choice.

  32. I'm the opposite of you, chose the T5 mostly because of the screen. No regrets. I never had a T4 but I wonder if it's worth it to upgrade at all really... Maybe you just have some GAS?

  33. The only other options I found are probably not something you'd actually want since they're pretty niche... but just because you're asking:

  34. Definitely looks like sensor dust to me. I'd grab a UV flashlight and see if it reveals anything you can't see normally on the lens and body before having one or the other serviced.

  35. It is good, has many fans. The 16-55 works better for my uses but it's worth it to get as a kit IMO (but not worth full MSRP).

  36. I think the issue is the background and bee are both dark, have you tried lightening the bee a bit? maybe with a bit of added warmth.

  37. I’m not expecting too much as I think this camera is just as old as my 600D.

  38. Probably usable, but again it comes down to what you can get for more or the same. The pro1 was a first version... Fuji learned a lot and the pro2 made a lot of improvements on that. Maybe this writeup on fuji vs fuji can help your decision a bit:

  39. Fuji (and most others) will not get any sort of IP rating nor repair any water damage in their WR products... that should tell you enough.

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