1. So I see you solved this issue but your explanation made so me confused lol, I have very little ssh knowledge 😭

  2. Make sure the knobs are decently tightened down and then move the z end stop down quite a bit but not touching the bed, then go around and level the bed, it’s always better to have the springs tighter, if you haven’t installed the hardened springs I’d recommend doing that as well

  3. You can’t be serious 😭 your nozzle is wayyyyyy to far away from the bed, your supposed to be squishing the filament to the bed not laying it on top of it

  4. Not to mention it won’t work properly unless the internals are installed correctly without messing up the holes the second the holes become bigger it allows movement in parts that shouldn’t move lol

  5. Ok will me up in mind so just make them how they are normally and don’t do this again gotcha

  6. If you have the drill bits from a p80 or a m3 and m4 drill bit (I think do a quick google search and make sure) you can pre drill the holes before putting the pins in to remove and excess material inside of the holes

  7. If that is the super lower with the bushings for the fcg then there is a threaded insert for the grip, if you printed the super lower it was advised you got the kit from Hoffmann website so you got the proper bushings and hardware

  8. I couldn’t get ABL to work with mine. Did you get that to work? I’ve been trying all day and can’t figure it out. I want to be able to home my nozzle to the center of the bed and use a feeler gauge to set my own offset and then I would like to do the same on my meshed areas and adjust my flow rate later. I just couldn’t get it to work or figure it out.

  9. Once you have the abl set up in your printer.cfg there should be a section on the left of your main screen called “heightmap” in there you click calibrate and it will run the mesh

  10. So my problem was the sensor itself, I removed the Bowden tube from the hotend and it allowed me to run the mesh, when I said I put the ! For the pin and it stayed on it was actually just being tripped by the tube pulling on the sensor, I put the ! Back in the pin assignment and once I removed the tube I turned off the printer and turned it back on resetting the sensor and ran the mesh like that

  11. You have to feed the filament all the way to the nozzle through the Bowden tube before trying a print, the little black tab with the spring allows you to disengage the gears and you can slide the filament in freely all the way up, make sure to cut the end of the filament at a 45° angle to make it easier as well

  12. nice. doesnt wood have moisture in it that could rust the gun?

  13. What wood is touching the gun? The pin is a 1/4” aluminum rod with heat shrink… it could rust the tip of my thead protector I guess but I’m not worried about that

  14. Bruh I had actually never heard of that so I googled it, I just might have to 😂😭

  15. I think someone mentioned that one already but I got a gallon sized ziplock of store bought and printed 😂😭 that’s kinda why i came here because I’ve thought of so much stuff already im out ideas 😭😭

  16. Exactly what happened with mine. It would print for a couple minutes then stop. I read the geode and it was busted too

  17. Damn, I didn’t even really care to open up the gcode but mine was probably all wonky, what did the temp settings set to once you hit print?? Mine went to 0° on the nozzle and bed after I preheated it before clicking print

  18. Lol I don't remember. It was like 10 months ago lol

  19. Definitely make sure the bed is level, I see you have the auto bed level switch so I’d create a new mesh just to make sure…..this one is gonna come out of left field but a dirty bed, your fingers leave oils all over the bed and it’s basically impossible for it to stick, I had warping issues on my lowers and I changed everything from fan speed to bed temp to actual print speed, and it was because my bed was dirty, I cleaned it off with some alcohol and you can feel the difference when you go to pull that next print off

  20. I’m still new to the 3d printing world and I’m still learning as I go but I had a similar issue and I realized the wheel the axis moved on was way tight along with my belts being extremely loose, after I got everything to normal it fixed it tremendously, I still had issues but mainly setting wise The belts won’t affect the actual Z axis but will affect how fast it can move over so it can cause blobbing if it’s moving the nozzle over too slow or the bed over too slow it can overlap due to the pressure in the nozzle, i don’t know any of this to be actually written in stone this is just my own experience from testing, hope this helps

  21. Would say o-light because that’s my personal preference but I’ll probably get hella downvotes for it because I don’t Dick ride streamlight so if you wanna please the Reddit dweebs go with streamlight, it’s honestly all up to you I’ll still buy o-lights all day long despite what anyone says

  22. Do you have any of their rifle lights? If so....thoughts?

  23. I don’t have any but I’ve used them in the past from friends and if you get the right ones they can all use the same magnetic charger if you have multiple which I find pretty nice so you don’t have hella chargers everywhere, for the overall function I mean there isn’t much difference unless you get different light and laser combos then obviously

  24. P80ralph’s mav9 it’s on his odysee

  25. Can u print db380 fame as well hear it will be the best smallest glock made looking to get metal low made a prototype would be nice or to know that it can be done lmk what u think

  26. it definitely can be done, not sure if it has been already, the chances though are high people make all types of stuff

  27. It sets your acceleration to light speeds because your in the Aquila super speed setting 😂😭 if you were in a standard profile it wouldn’t be like that

  28. The acceleration is set to what it is because I am using a feature that Cura has in their 4.13 release (I personally named it Aquila Super Speed, that is not an included profile). Everything that I have here is intentional and for testing purposes, the point is to see if it is now easier for people with Ender 3 style printers to print their 100% infill parts at way faster speeds with relatively same quality to that of a standard profiles.


  30. Unpopular opinion… but do you not have a local gun store?? I’ve never ordered mags online, I’m impatient and don’t feel like waiting for something I paid for (within reason) if i can find it in town I’m gonna do that first, so I’d check around your local gun stores mine sells OEM and pmags yours might as well

  31. If u want a full builders kit go on rock slide usa or 80p builder

  32. Absolutely not do this…. Rock slide is actual garbage, you can get the whole kit on 80pbuilder, and many other websites but don’t use rockslide lol, the frame will always come unassembled and undrilled unless it’s stated otherwise in the description and if it is completed it’s most likely serialized and will have to be shipped to a FFL but the full kit comes with all the parts you need to actually complete it and you also get the drill bits to drill the holes, the channel on the other hand is on you to figure out, I recommend a dremel but many people have just used an exacto knife and some sandpaper, you will obviously need to buy magazines for it too lol

  33. That’s pretty weird I don’t see the purpose in that at all, maybe it works specifically with their barrels or it was a bad design flaw lol, I just took my barrel out and I don’t have that little bump and you said you have another slide that doesn’t have a bump?… try using that slide and see if it gets caught… if they are the same model of course… You should be okay to smoothen that out I won’t hurt it

  34. The slides are different manufacturers and different styles but I'll give that a try.

  35. I mean that shouldn’t matter on functionality, if they are made for the same gun they should work exactly the same, if that one doesn’t have the bump and works perfectly fine, go for it and smoothen out the little bump on the other one

  36. Mdx arms has pretty decent priced slides and I’ve heard only good things about them but I haven’t experienced them myself, 80pbuilder on the other hand is just a tad bit more expensive but I haven’t had a single issue with my build from them I bought a whole kit and everything went together flawlessly and functions 100%

  37. I was looking to get one from them but literally the only place that has my combination of needs is knightfall customs, I can’t find a single place that has appendix light bearing for p80 g19 with a baldr S besides them, I wanna try the 2 piece side car because I already assume it’s more comfortable I just have to wait till my option is available

  38. ^ yeah OEM for all your parts if you can

  39. Lol “asking for a friend” probably start by using oem internals, if your already are it’s most likely your connector angle, it could be out of spec a little

  40. How does that Zaffiri Slide fit? I bought one and I’m having a fit issue on my lower.

  41. The slide is from 80pbuilder the “elite 2.0”, they look identical except it doesn’t have the ZP logo on the side, it could be from the cerakote used it might be too thick I’m not sure

  42. Dang that fooled me. I’m having troubles with the slide and Zaffiri isn’t getting back to me

  43. Damn, if you wanna pm me with some pics I can take a look

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