If not 60, it's one of the 59 series, but I think it is 60, too. Since the 60 is relatively common and readily available, you could try inserting a blank in the cylinder to see if it will fit.
I've known situations where a mortise cylinder was purposely installed up side down in order to deactivate the keyed function of the lock on that side of the door (they exclusively used the thumb turn inside in a building with more than one door).
Maybe something like a Hermle Ravensburg could work ? It has a passing strike bell (one ding on the hour) but you could devise a method to hold back the hammer so it wouldn't strike.
Yes, there are lots. The search term you're looking for online is "skeleton clock". There are all kinds, some of which have a glass dome, others having clear cases and others are open.
Thank you for the suggestion. However, such a clock is too big for a beside table. Maybe I wasn't clear in my question, but I do not need an alarm on this clock as my wife's clock radio assures that function.
You have a count wheel mechanism. The count wheel is the one with irregularly shaped and spaced teeth. There is a lever with a hook on the end that goes up and down on that wheel and the ridges prevent it from locking the striking train until the correct number of blows have been counted. Then it goes down in the slot and locks up the strike train until the next striking occurence. Maybe the 7 o'clock slot has some kind of foreign matter and makes it stop after only 6 blows ?
There is a rather large hole in the back plate between the hammer and the spiral gong. You can see the edge of the count wheel through and there is a silver coloured lever that rests on the count wheel. That is the count hook and should rise and fall with the striking blows. Make it strike 7 and watch carefully if you can see something amiss.
So, it’s not striking properly at 7? There’s a gear on the front that’s referred to as a snail that the rack falls into when the clock strikes. I’d look at that. There may need to be a slight adjustment to the snail placement. Would also look at the rack tension spring.
Where the "changer arm" is attached, there are numbers : 7, 10 and 12. I cannot see a lever or knob there, but there should be an adjustment. It is likely set to either 7 or 10 whereas it should be set to 12. That is the record diameter setting and you need to set it to the correct size so the tonearm drops at the beginning of the record. Those numbers represent the diameter of the different record sizes in inches.
After pulling it it sounds like it’s free spinning and then stops. I believe that would match up with advancing the chime. I wonder if it would prevent the chime altogether if it was held down continuously. My SO isn’t a big fan of the chime at night. I opened it up and disconnected the levers from the hammers, but the mechanism from trying to chime still clatters a whole lot.
If the striking mechanism still "strikes" without hammer movement and it bothers you, simply remove the striking weight and the strike mechanism will not activate. Beware that if you handle the weight(s) often, the oils on your skin will tarnish them so you might consider wearing gloves to do so.
Most clocks of this style are Korean and are designed to run 31 days between windings, which means you wind it once a month. This means both springs will wind down in a month (time and strike). You will notice that by the last week of the winding cycle, the striking gets slower and that the speed will be restored upon winding.
That red piece of string looks quite tight as if it were holding the hammers back to prevent them from hitting the rods. Does this clock have a shutoff mechanism ? If so, this could be part of it although I would rather think it is a DIY attempt by someone to silence the hammers.
All the ones I've seen (heard) tick loudly. You can either continue stopping it at night or move it to a part of the house that is far from bedrooms. Otherwise, as you suggest, replacing it with a different brand (non-Korean) could also work.
Looks like Corbin 60 to me
If not 60, it's one of the 59 series, but I think it is 60, too. Since the 60 is relatively common and readily available, you could try inserting a blank in the cylinder to see if it will fit.
I've known situations where a mortise cylinder was purposely installed up side down in order to deactivate the keyed function of the lock on that side of the door (they exclusively used the thumb turn inside in a building with more than one door).
This is on the inside of a bar leading out to the smokers area with no other exits.
Oh, well, in that case, it need attention...
🤔🤔 I'm going with 34
I'm going with the square root of 21609. Oh, wait, that is the question and the answer is 147...
I'm try to find some. I have lubricant oil for sewing or hair cutting machines somewhere, but don't know if it would be better or worse than w40.
I never tried any of those ones, but I think they are too thick for clocks.
I'll find clock oil then, thank you
You're welcome !
Seems to me like this is an invitation to corkscrew-making...
I'm sure no one would dare remove that battery without authorization. Jeesh, why even bother.
While you're at it, just leave the cover off. It will make changing the battery easier next time.
Maybe something like a Hermle Ravensburg could work ? It has a passing strike bell (one ding on the hour) but you could devise a method to hold back the hammer so it wouldn't strike.
Great! Thank you!
Yes, there are lots. The search term you're looking for online is "skeleton clock". There are all kinds, some of which have a glass dome, others having clear cases and others are open.
Gool ol' Corbin keyway 77 !
I found a Skillman mortise lock in the wild last year!
Those are getting rarer with time. They are what gave the SK1 blank number for Corbin 77 in 5 pin.
get an E. Ingraham gingerbread clock. most have the alarm, and i could sell you some alarm parts.
Thank you for the suggestion. However, such a clock is too big for a beside table. Maybe I wasn't clear in my question, but I do not need an alarm on this clock as my wife's clock radio assures that function.
Oof ! I guess they don't really need an excuse not to bring passengers...
You have a count wheel mechanism. The count wheel is the one with irregularly shaped and spaced teeth. There is a lever with a hook on the end that goes up and down on that wheel and the ridges prevent it from locking the striking train until the correct number of blows have been counted. Then it goes down in the slot and locks up the strike train until the next striking occurence. Maybe the 7 o'clock slot has some kind of foreign matter and makes it stop after only 6 blows ?
There is a rather large hole in the back plate between the hammer and the spiral gong. You can see the edge of the count wheel through and there is a silver coloured lever that rests on the count wheel. That is the count hook and should rise and fall with the striking blows. Make it strike 7 and watch carefully if you can see something amiss.
So, it’s not striking properly at 7? There’s a gear on the front that’s referred to as a snail that the rack falls into when the clock strikes. I’d look at that. There may need to be a slight adjustment to the snail placement. Would also look at the rack tension spring.
I don't believe this is a rack and snail because I see the count wheel between the hammer pivot and the gong.
A server wiring closet !
Where the "changer arm" is attached, there are numbers : 7, 10 and 12. I cannot see a lever or knob there, but there should be an adjustment. It is likely set to either 7 or 10 whereas it should be set to 12. That is the record diameter setting and you need to set it to the correct size so the tonearm drops at the beginning of the record. Those numbers represent the diameter of the different record sizes in inches.
Oh dang, I think that's it. I didn't realize that was a knob...and nice to know about diameter settings!
You're welcome !
6-9-4-2-0
Now, don't go around telling everyone the override key bitting...
is it worth anything?
By itself, not really. However, if you remove it from the clock, it will diminish its value because it will be missing a piece.
I just watched a video and realized my clock has a replacement face. I have the circle thing but no way to get it on the face.
Well dang !
After pulling it it sounds like it’s free spinning and then stops. I believe that would match up with advancing the chime. I wonder if it would prevent the chime altogether if it was held down continuously. My SO isn’t a big fan of the chime at night. I opened it up and disconnected the levers from the hammers, but the mechanism from trying to chime still clatters a whole lot.
If the striking mechanism still "strikes" without hammer movement and it bothers you, simply remove the striking weight and the strike mechanism will not activate. Beware that if you handle the weight(s) often, the oils on your skin will tarnish them so you might consider wearing gloves to do so.
This proves that you can install a Kwikset Smart key on an aluminium storefront door. It also proves that you can do it in a... less elegant way.
This key may be able to go into lock but can’t pull it out, cut too steep!
Yes, but on eBay I occasionally see old, worn (so you know it has been used a lot) hotel keys that are cut sort of like this one.
To answer the question that wasn’t asked, 42.
Ah, silly me ! I thought the answer was 42.625.
Most clocks of this style are Korean and are designed to run 31 days between windings, which means you wind it once a month. This means both springs will wind down in a month (time and strike). You will notice that by the last week of the winding cycle, the striking gets slower and that the speed will be restored upon winding.
That red piece of string looks quite tight as if it were holding the hammers back to prevent them from hitting the rods. Does this clock have a shutoff mechanism ? If so, this could be part of it although I would rather think it is a DIY attempt by someone to silence the hammers.
What does the knurled (non-keyed) knob do ? Maybe you need to either push or pull on it when turning... Just a guess, I'm almost as clueless as you.
Maybe you should consider a career change and become a therapist.
All the ones I've seen (heard) tick loudly. You can either continue stopping it at night or move it to a part of the house that is far from bedrooms. Otherwise, as you suggest, replacing it with a different brand (non-Korean) could also work.
Good. Now you need to fit them all in a SFIC master key system so you'll only have to carry one key !