Will this 8'x10' shed platform last? This is how the contractor leveled the platform - with smaller pieces of wood. It just doesn't seem like this is a proper way to do this.

  1. This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban

  2. I see lot wrong here. The concrete blocks should not be sitting on the dirt. They should excavate some soil and mound up some gravel then pack it. Then the concrete blocks carefully leveled that shims are not necessary. If the do use shims, the grain should be horizontal and the material should be rot resistant like cedar. The 4x4's are also not tied together well. A hack job.

  3. This is how I thought I was going to be done, and what we discussed - remove what roots were in the way and level the blocks first.

  4. Bingo. I built an 8x10 building, as well as a 10x10 deck last year. All of the foundation was done as ancient budget described. Dig out holes, compact, put in gravel, then the concrete elephants foot foundation block. Then 2x6s for the foundation, joined with lag bolts. All cut ends sealed. If the contractor takes their time, then shimming like the picture shows shouldn’t even be necessary. I think I needed a shim in one corner, and I used a sliver of asphalt shingles under the 2x6. Your contractor is cheap and lazy.

  5. Well it honestly depends on the purpose of the structure. When I lived on a farm we were happy enough to put up sheds like this with cedar shingles to help level it. But then again we expected to have to adjust them every couple years due to frost heave and wood rotting.

  6. YOU ARE KIDDING? Right? No it won’t last. Obviously that “contractor” isn’t licensed. There are a few ways to level the “platform” for a shed and that is so far from them it’s not funny.

  7. I'm in an area where this quality of work seems normal. None of it looked right to me, but I'm at the point where I was starting to think I was being the "picky" customer.

  8. The previous owner of my house built a shed on the property with six supports, 3 on each long side, like you have in the third pic. He used no pressure treated wood. Years later I am stuck with a shed that has settled and the door hangs up. The wood under the floor is rotting because the cement blocks have sunk into the ground. Now I need to decide if it is feasible to jack the shed up and put a new floor and structure under it or tear the whole thing down and start over. A lot of work either way. Do not accept that or you will be sorry.

  9. I jacked up my shitty old shed (literally dragged the car jack across the grass) and leveled it with pavers and shims and the door was squared right up again. As long as the framing isn’t rotted, you can keep it alive. My back yard was prone to flooding and the old foundation just sank into the ground, but it’s serviceable.

  10. I used the premade concrete feet (cross shape on top for locating the wood 2*6) and without lower anchors they're shifting on a simple deck - need a footing or your shed will just stress...

  11. After a single winter it will all be messed up, or a heavy rain. There should at least be a few inches of hard packed gravel under the blocks, or ideally an actual concrete pad (2-3”). If you’re putting a pre-fab plastic shed on this the doors won’t open next year (those rely on things being very level and plumb).

  12. None of this is great. Ideally, the blocks would be set back slightly from the edge of the platform so that water runs off onto the ground. If it runs on top of the blocks the wood will sit in moisture and rot out. The blocks should be on gravel for drainage also. The piece of wood on the ground is just flat wrong.

  13. Certainly not very professional, but one has to wonder about cost vs reward here. Looks to be a very small shed, for storing gardening tools I imagine? If the cost is low this may be all you can reasonably expect, and honestly may be sufficient for a long time. A lot of the smaller prefab sheds you can buy don't come with any kind of floor at all and are just plonked over bare earth.

  14. I doubt my building skills sometimes, but then I see shit like this and I immediately feel better about myself. Thanks OP I needed this today lol

  15. It's not even worth having him come back to fix all the shit wrong with this. Fire him, get your money back, and hire someone who is actually capable of building a shed. The guy you hired is either completely incompetent, too lazy to even do a half-assed job, or more likely both.

  16. So much wrong here. Fire him and get back any money you paid. It's not enough to just set the shed on some blocks. It needs to be anchored to keep it from blowing over in high winds. And 4x4's are not appropriate for horizontal spans, particularly not 10 feet.

  17. The instructions for the shed call for 2x6's to be used. When he saw I had a bunch of 4x4 posts leftover from another project, he said they would be more than strong enough for the platform.

  18. I feel bad now. I just used some small shims on my shed but after reading the comments I guess my shed will fall into a sinkhole.

  19. My rule of thumb is “if it looks like something I would do then a contractor shouldn’t have done it.”

  20. Contractor here. If you are using this to store a riding lawnmower, then DO NOT MOVE FORWARD with this install until you get this resolved! It will be a potentially life threatening scenario if that shed slips off while you’re driving your machine up into it.

  21. Ask for your money back. That is some horrible footing work and espeically when you have a big wind storm, that shed will slid off to the side eventually. Also just using some wood like that to balance is that wood is likely to rot much quicker.

  22. Is the 3rd picture on top of tree roots? Lol But none of this is gonna last. The bricks are gonna sink. The shims are gonna rot. Your shed will be sitting on the ground.

  23. That specific category of shim is “Need a new contractor” shims. Need to Level from ground up. Those blocks aren’t even level. Sorry this is the norm where you are, but that doesn’t make it ok.

  24. That isn't how you level a shed. The solution with the smallest amount of digging is to dig three narrow shape trenches. The width would be that of a cinder block. The depth of the three trenches would be enough that they are all level with each other, left to right and front to back. They can't be so deep that the top of the blocks must be above all ground.

  25. For lasting performance, we usually dig 3' deep, 3' diameter holes filled with crushed stone under the pads. In cold zones, 2" rigid under pads can mitigate heaving. Aessthetically, it can be nice to set the top of the pads at grade and then post from them where necessary (good for breathability/longevity). But that's not as concerning as the floor frame.

  26. Yes, the shed platform will outlast a generation. But will it perform it's intended function properly given the excellent foundation? That's a big ole negativo! So much wrong with this.

  27. If you live in a climate that has winter, this will be ruined within a season. Footings needs to be below the frost line. Otherwise the structure will heave

  28. Geezus, this is horrifying. Your shed won't be level after one season. Depending your area. The freeze and thaw is going to destroy all level. And let's not even get started having it sit on tree roots, The shims. The stones not level. I can't believe someone did this.

  29. Lol wow. Think your “contractor” has only leveled a trailer at best. My 7 yr old nephew could do a better job than that

  30. Shims are generally OK to level a shed, but those shims aren't even cut in the right direction. The one under the concrete block is just f'n stupid. Overall this isn't acceptable work.

  31. Ok so most people have made some decent comments. 1)shims are fine but they should be under and clean cut, not stacked and angled sticking out. 2)this won’t necessarily sink right away but these concrete blocks are just sitting on black dirt that’s packed. If this swells or sinks or have any movement so will the blocks in those areas.

  32. This is NOT the way. I’m not a contractor or a pro, built similar for a friend recently but I used deck blocks with gravel underneath, leveled all sides and then built frame on top. Triple checked leveling and then assembled shed.

  33. Absolutely not! You can use roofing shingles to true up a small gap say less than 1/2 inch, but this gonna fail in the near future and cause settling issues! Plus why in the crap would he not square up his blocks? This is a giant red flag that this guy does not give a crap about his workmanship or the hard earned money that you pay for his services!

  34. I'm not very good, far from a professional, and even I would be ashamed by this. Whoever did this for hire should be looking for a new line of work or invest in better training.

  35. I'll start with this is done poorly. Each municipality or county will have their own requirements for building code. Code does not judge the quality your work, just that you did it according to their rules/standards.

  36. I hope you didn't put any money down. If not tell that clown you ain't paying shit, you don't want him to build you shit, and come take away his shit... Good Lord that's unbelievable. Some guy who took wood shop in high school and dropped it after the second class would know better than that.... Much less a "contractor" What an embarrassment

  37. Contractor is a lazy unqualified Buffoon. Should be on precast concrete footers properly leveled BEFORE placing base. At a minimum.

  38. Wait, you’re paying a licensed contractor for this!? This looks like something a homeowner without a clue would do and say “good enough”. Do you have a contract with them?

  39. It’s probably fine for an outbuilding. But the generic building code requirement (and common sense) do require tie-down resistance for high wind gusts. Depending on where it is located and it’s wind exposure your probably ok 50-60% of the times without. You could try screw-in ground anchors like mobile homes utilize. They do marginally ok in a steady wind, but gust response can pop them out of the ground quicker than you think. Generally the roof structure acts a a giant wing and a wooden structure is generally not enough load to resist the lift/movement. A metal structure on top of this has substantially less resistance because it is even lighter in weight. It’s best to skip over the hazard/liability/harm/damage it can become once moving and/or becoming airborne. We won’t even broach flotation and buoyancy during high water storm effects. Also, all it would take is 2-4 eye lag bolts and your local thief could hook a cable to it and it be forever gone. It’s your risk to take. The opinion of a retired civil engineer and building official. It’s your risk to take.

  40. I've built sheds. The old adage of the foundation being the most important part is true. The ground under the platform should have been prepped so the deck would be level without those horrible pieces of wood. Also for drainage.

  41. Lol no to make it last it needs to have beams going down 48" to the frost footer so when the ground freezes it won't move but for just a little shed yeah it's fine you may have to jack it up once every couple of years to move things around but that's all there is 2 different versions of pressure treated wood though there is a above ground one and a underground one the above ground one will rot if it's in the dirt so make sure it's the right one or use a lot of paint under it

  42. If you're planning on no gravel, get those concrete feet to support the floor. In a perfect world sheds should have leveled and packed gravel with the floor floating on skids. That way when you set your boards they are level without the need for shims.

  43. Tuff shed uses this type of shim. They have steel instead of those 4x4's tho. Tuff shed missed studs 35+ times nailing up the siding. Brought them back to fix by threatening to call the actual owner (and his wife) of Tuff Shed at home in Colorado .- privately owned company. My neighbor, not a builder and not very skilled, built his own, just as good .

  44. Jesus Christ. A “contractor” did this? I’m definitely an amateur when it comes to this shit. But… even a basic google search presents the proper way to set and level the platform.

  45. I feel terrible for people that hire someone to do a job correctly then they are left with that. Sad no that will not last. Also I’m sure those concrete blocks will sink within a couple years should have at least dug some dirt up and placed gravel underneath will help drain water away and save you in the future

  46. PT will rot. PT will rot after being cut. PT warranty is void after being cut. water absorbs in trees up xylem. shit’ll shims are facing rain and water will pool on cindies and absorb up xylem of no longer warranties PT and shit’ll shed will be tower of the pisa - but shit’ll version.

  47. Generous usage of the word ‘platform’. Should have 2-3 ply 2x6 runners long side pl and nailed together. Joist 2x6 @ 12” o/c with proper joist hangers (not toe nailed).

  48. Why looks perfectly fine. Looks a lot like work I did—in seventh grade when my buddies & I built a treehouse/camp site in the woods.

  49. Well, a level and a $40 hydraulic jack and a yearly checkup are all you need to keep it level. Eventually it will stop sinking. I have a 45x20 barn that is 100 years old that I level every few years.

  50. This is unusable and you should move on from this handyman. Every time I look there are more problems. Look at the nails shooting out the side of the 4x4 in the second picture! Why were they even shot at an angle???

  51. He should have used bigger peices but the peices are from the same 4×4 that the rest of the shed base is built on. It will rot at the same rate. I don't see why people are crying so hard in here.

  52. I'm guilty of doing shit like this in my own house when I'm working with scraps and don't want to run to Lowes, but if I was paying someone, I would expect a lot better.

  53. No excuse for that. You don’t even do that temporarily and come back to make a foundation after you’ve built the deck.

  54. Could it be that he’s still in the middle of this job, that the job is not finished. It looks temporary. Like he’s going to come back tomorrow.

  55. I did over 25 years of union construction and what I see here is a hack job come on there even using your leftovers to do this . FTM and while they are not there knock that corner out the blocks don't even have a nice look . Be picky and be smart there's a lot of carpenters and he's not the one for the job.

  56. The best advise you are going to get. Tear that shit out tonight and when he shows up in the morning tell him to start over and do it right or leave. It’s a dick move but this guy is going to rip you off if you dont

  57. I mean you might be grumpy about it, but as long as you got a good deal and you don't take the pieces out, it will be level... I don't want to make any assumptions about you but this is the type of thing I usually see when people fuck carpenters out of money or refuse to pay the full amount that was agreed upon. Usually if this happens to you it's cause you attempted to fuck over one of the carpenters, or a whole company.

  58. "It will be level?" ..... That shit will not be level 1 week after building is done and putting the lawn mower in. Christ one night of heavy rain and it might lose level

  59. My shed looks a lot like that - but only because it's not finished yet. It'll have proper footings when it is finished.

  60. I know this is the woodworking sub but a thin co Crete slab would hold your mower and your wood frame on top wouldn't be in the dirt anymore. Of course it would cost more.

  61. Like others stated it’s not correct. Setting that aside. The picture with the roots is very problematic. You can’t put a foundation on top of growing roots. Even if done correctly it will be pushed by the growth of the roots.

  62. The wood shims will probably hold up for a few years but the major issue will be when the blocks settle into the ground that will create a teetering issue with the shed sitting on top.

  63. This is definitely not how you want a shed built. The only problem I see here, is that you may be dealing with a guy who really doesn't know how to do this, and thinks this is OK. I personally would can this guy and hunt for a new contractor, one who's work you have gone to visibly review to make sure of what you are paying for.

  64. Are those blocks just sitting on dirt or is there sand and paver base under there? If they're just on dirt, you're gonna have problems. Those wood pieces for leveling are just lazy. He's supposed to level the foundation blocks and not need those pieces of wood.

  65. It ain't pretty, but from the looks of it you didn't pay someone to do it right, you paid em to do it.

  66. Maybe for a temporary but then i wouldnt have it built it that way. I just know if thats going to be there permanently thats some bullshit craftsmanship. Could've easily put pier blocks there or a concrete post. I would ask the guy who built it for you whats up.

  67. I don’t suppose there’s a permit involved? And no that’s not correct. In the very least you should have holes dug filled with gravel and then cinder piers placed on top. Whoever put cinder on top of wood like that should be ashamed to call themselves any type of builder. Also how the beams meet each other in the corner nothing there makes me happy

  68. Build a simple box around the feet and pour footers around what he left you. Simple solution to a longer term problem.

  69. He should’ve mounted 4x4’s (or 6x6’s depending on the size of the shed) cemented 28”-36” into the ground, with the volume of the cement being about 4x the volume of the wood it is securing. The excess timber extending from the cement should then be cut using something similar to a chalk line to ensure leveling of the floor joists.. it seems like the floor was constructed first, and this “foundation” was manipulated to accommodate the pre-constructed floor. This won’t last and may cause damage to property. I would suggest getting your insurance agent to come evaluate it in it’s current state, so that they’ll be able to give some advice in negotiating with the contractor to fix this. If THEY have insurance, your agent will be able to contact their agent who will then advise them of the potential legal repercussions of walking away from a job in this condition. Not only is it ugly, but there are seriously legitimate concerns of collapse once those “supports” succumb to the elements.

  70. I would be ashamed of this if my 12 year old did it. Unbelievable that a “professional “ would do something like this

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