riving knife or not?

  1. Afaik the saw never actually had one in it. It's an older delta contractor saw. I know they help prevent kickback, but if contractor saws come without them, can just staying vigilant and using the saw properly not also do that?

  2. Second the micro jig. It’s cheap and effective. Shark guard is the higher price riving knife and dust collection safety.

  3. What's going to cost more, a riving knife or an ER visit? Being careful helps, but where a riving knife or splitter will save your day is when the workpiece does something unexpected. You can't always predict how a board might warp or twist when internal stress is released, and push sticks aren't much help when a board pinches the back of the blade.

  4. I'm not sure what that means tbh. For context the saw is an older model with a motor hanging off the back and a belt driving the blade. It says delta Rockwell above the knob thing and the manual he gave me with it said delta 34-670 (although he printed it and the fence looks different). The fence says delta unifence on it, and it does not appear to have a place for the riving knife. I was told it would be a better buy than a new ryobi jobsite saw for ab the same price, but now this issue is causing me headaches lmao

  5. You mean a splitter? A riving knife has to rise and fall with the blade. A splitter can be fitted to that saw easily enough, but a riving knife would take some engineering.

  6. I've never used one, and don't think I've ever used a saw that'd take one from the factory. I won't tell you to go on without it, but I would. Keep your hands out of the plane of the blade (both behind and in front of it). Support your work well. Two hands/sticks on the work at all times. Think through your cut before you start the saw and pay absolutely attention once it's spinning. Table saw accidents are 99.9% preventable with an ounce of forethought and a pinch of attention.

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