94 f250 it’s my first time doing drum brakes and one side isn’t moving. Is the brake cylinder bad?

  1. That’s for the e brake it wasn’t attached at the time but it is now. It shouldn’t effect the shoe from moving.

  2. Not sure if its right but could be cause the pressure is going to the path of least resistance, once you put the drum back on it will push the otherside once the right side is pressed up against the drum, cause it does look like there is alot of movement to it, normally its just small increments, but not 100% as ive only work on drum brakes from old school gtrs

  3. To change the wheel cylinder you have to take the nut off the inside of the backing plate then drive the bolt out slightly to release the long curved padking brake lever . The T bushing and the claw shaped piece that spreads the upper brake shoes.

  4. That's normal for one side to move without the drum on. Just like a dual piston caliper, when you push the brake one piston will move out because inherently one has less friction. Use opposite side for guide. And yes that cable isn't hooked up right.

  5. This is fine. When the drum is installed they will act normally. As mentioned, the way it sits it's just taking the path of least resistance. Double check everything against the other side, and if it matches, send it.

  6. I’ve been running it like this for a week and the brakes still don’t work very good. They feel the same way they did before everything was replaced.

  7. They are fine the way science works is the side that is moving would be hitting the brake drum then pushing the other side but if you press it to many times with out the drum on that’s when you really fucked up asron

  8. Take a screwdriver and try pushing the rod that's not moving into wheel cylinder if it moves easily w/o binding then it is b/c the fluid is moving to the path of least resistance.

  9. Yeah if you put your hand against the one that’s moving and push it’ll move to the other side, once the drum is on it’ll push both directions, just make sure your adjuster cable and adjusters are both in correct and on the correct side, otherwise it’ll actually adjust the shoe looser instead of tightening, yup it happens, doubt there’s anything wrong with the wheel cylinder if there’s no leaks and if you can move the pins back and forth

  10. I think that that’s normal. Because there’s no drum stopping either shoe it’s just moving the one side that’s easiest to move. Don’t hit the brakes too hard with the drums off otherwise you’ll blow the wheel cylinders out and have a mess on your hands/possibly have to re -bleed the brakes. Have you tried driving it yet to see how they work?

  11. I’ve bled the system 3 times in the last 3 months I’ve had the truck. the brakes have always been really bad everything has been replaced in the rear drums but the brake cylinders. I’m just really stumped on what else could be causing the brakes to not work. I have new fluid and all new hardware. I’m going to replace the whee cylinders tomorrow and see if it helps at all.

  12. Nope, this is perfectly normal. Also NEVER touch the brake pedal with the drum off of the car, it’s super easy to overextend the wheel cylinder and blow out one side then have ti reassemble it and check for damage or replace the wheel cylinder. If you don’t have any leaks the wheel cylinder is fine. The reason one shoe is moving is because the drum isn’t in place. When the drum is installed and you push the brake, the easier to move shoe hits the drum then the other gets forced out and presses against the drum as well. Also I advise you to completely tear this down and put it back together correctly. The self adjusted cable isn’t even connected, it’s also supposed to ride in the grooves on that little metal piece that spring is holding, it’s not even close, you need to fix that or get the car towed where a professional can get this back together properly. Without that cable attached you could have issues with the adjuster loosening up and losing all breaking force to that wheel.

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