How the fuck does anyone demo plywood that has been glued down with liquid nails? This is kicking my ass

  1. Yeah been there… try cutting smaller maybe, and using one of those 4ft pry bars oh and get get a laborer to in his early 20’s- that might help

  2. I've cheated before and taken a crappy circular saw blade and marked out the joists then ran that thing just barely deeper than the thickness off the plywood until you hog out most of the area on top of the joists. It's time consuming but holy shit does it beat using prybars and big hammers for hours on end

  3. Now I'm sitting here imagining a circular saw with a longer arbor to accommodate a dado stack to sweep the edge of the joist in one pass, just the carnage that would follow... lol

  4. Yup, I did the same. Run the length of the joist right in middle, then I would make a cut halfway between 2 joists, and you could just "rock" it off most of the time...

  5. Anytime I demo floor, I always play checkers. Just cut squares with the demo skil saw. Makes it easier to take out in pieces.

  6. That's great until you step on the wrong square. Fall straight through the subfloor and rake your legs on the rusted staples as you are going down. Three trips to the wound center later I'm just starting to walk again. On this project I would suggest dynamite.

  7. sadly i have found a cats paw to each nail is the fastest. After the nails are gone the glue isn't really a problem.

  8. Try a reciprocating saw with a long flex blade. Use a metal blade if there are nails. Get it started under the ply and move it along the joist and the ply. Not ideal but better than hammer and pry bar Or a multi tool like a dremel same concept.

  9. Cut those joist straight through the middle and tell your boss sorry instructions unclear. He will have to replace them completely and you won't have to bother cleaning them up.

  10. Milwaukee makes a scraper blade that fits on sawzalls. I also use a demo blade for nail embedded (lots of them sometimes). And the mighty sledge hammer when I get pissed.

  11. Rip along joists with circ saw, sawzall the remnants. Belt sand to clean it up. 3/4” subfloor will take care of the rest (with liberal application of liquid nails of course)

  12. Skillsaw depth of the plywood down the middle over each joists. Sledge or hammer each side to get most off. Then use oscillating saw or grinder to get off the rest. Good luck. I feel the frustration from here.

  13. After cutting and smashing it out, I’ve used the vibrating cutting tool (don’t know the name of the tool, as I’m not a carpenter) and run it along the top of the floor joists with the blade parallel to the surface to scrape the glue off.

  14. Reduce the depth of your circular saw blade to the thickness of the plywood and just make a bunch of passes over it. Use a chisel to clean up the smaller pieces.

  15. Cut it into smaller strips like every joist bay and then across like checker board, get a “deck wrecker” and go down the joist. That’s the easiest way I’ve found

  16. Cut a strip along the joist like you have. Cut it the depth of the plywood on both ends, then rock it back and forth.

  17. Saw down each side of the joists so that only a 2” wide plywood strip remains over the joists. Pull the nails with a cats paw, chisel off the plywood from the joists. I’ve tried a lot of different methods over the course of 30 years in the business and haven’t come up with a cleaner, faster method.

  18. A Sawzall along each side of each joist. Then, remove the layer of plywood with a Sawzall from the top of your joist, prying nails out first. Then I use a Fein tool to get it cleaned off.

  19. This plus after cutting the plywood to the width of the joist I’d cut a bunch of kerfs through the plywood perpendicular to the joist. Then instead of cutting through the glue with a Sawzall I’d switch to a jigsaw. As the short pieces of plywood drop away you’ll be able to see if the blade is tracking through the glue or starting to dive into the joist

  20. You need a wrecking bar, like one of those octagonal 4ft bars with a loop on one end . Helps you get ALOT more leverage than that tiny crowbar ever will

  21. Cut out your sub floor between the joists. Next cut 2-4 shallow lines along the joist with a skill saw. Then use a scraper blade on a recip saw to remove the last pieces(it's like a light weight chisel for this sort of task) or if you dont have that try a curcular saw on its side or multi tool as last options. Prying on this shit is defeating. This is one of those times you need the right tools and approach.

  22. I’d say get as much up as you can, to where the joist is mainly exposed except for where the last bits of ply are hanging onto that adhesive then bust out a paint stripping heat gun and heat the shot out of it with torching the joist too much and that should make it a little easier to get up. Just the way it is, if you don’t glue down your subfloor it’s going to get squeaky. This method will save you on trying to fur out the spots where you demolished the joist for new subfloor.

  23. Nightmare tbh. Cats paw then chisel the glue or feign tool or multi tool whatever you want to call it with scraper blade. Hopefully the glue is old enough that it will chip off smacking it with hammer. Good luck and don’t expect a quick solution it’s gunna eat a lot of time. Also a string saw don’t know real name but that will get glue off. If all else fails 5 gallons gas and put a match head in the middle of cigarette and light it take a puff or 2 and walk away get in you truck and leave 😂😂jkjk. It sucks I have done it a few times.

  24. God damn I remember this bullshit. The whole time I’d think to myself “some asshole was thinking about me doing this fucking 40 years ago and laughing his ass off…mission accomplished and I hope you’re dead by now”

  25. I had to remove 3/4” plywood subfloor that was glued and screwed down, in the process of renovating my bathroom. I used a sawzall, hammer / pry bar, angle grinder, multitool - that may have been it but I cycled through them and it was extremely difficult. I swore I would tear a deficient structure down before remodeling it in the future.

  26. Using cheap tools, cut the depth of plywood over the joists then cut out the plywood on either side of the joist. Take it down to the proper level with an electric hand plane. Make sure you wear fuckin glasses. Them hot nails hurt lol.

  27. First thing you do is cut the plywood in between each of the joists so it should be tippy if you step on it. Then pull one of the sections up by whatever means necessay then Use a 2x4 as a lever against the other joists should come up pretty easy.

  28. Before you go making a mess of work.. Set blade depth and run the Skilly down the length of joists a few times (wear eye pro-pull nails if can). The rest is bars, chisel and hammer.

  29. Had to tear up 1,600sqft of glue down laminate. Not sure if that makes you feel better. But imagine this times 200 haha.

  30. I can't tell from the picture, but did they nail it too? If not, try setting the depth on your saw to match the sheeting and run it up and down the joist, before demo.

  31. Just cut them out and install new ones. Quote for material plus whatever you would have charged for labor. You'll have this down and back together in a few hours.

  32. Cats paw, framing hammer and 4 foot pry bar. Just slightly get the nail head above the surface and then use the 4 foot pry bar. I usually get like 20+ nails a hair up and then just stand up using the pry bar and yank them all the way out with ease.

  33. Pull the nails with your cats paw and then pry them up. The longer the lever the better. Usually use a 2X6 with the 5 1/2" side measuring top to bottom......will snap if you use on the flat.

  34. Set your circular to three quarters of an inch (18mm)(width of the ply) cut your ply into 6" or 5" strips across the joist, smaller pieces, then use a long handled lump hammer, rag the board up from the space below the board surface, be carful not to drop it through the ceiling of the floor below, (best check there's noone below you and fence it off put a notice up) use a big crow bar, long length of scaffold pole, take out all the screws you can take out, get your gaffer to supply the right tools, tha needs a big prying device to get that up. More important... Take your time.. slowly slowly catchy monkey.. I'm talking bollocks arnt i

  35. Maybe this air scraper would work. Just keep your angle lower so as to not dig into studs. I used mine for removing some stubborn tile and it was a lifesaver.

  36. I normally find that the room typically actually gets one sheet of plywood shorter every time I run into this problem. craziest thing.

  37. Burn it down after work and just make sure meter wall stays … then get remodel permit and you now have job for winter lol. Joking…. Honestly if it was easy everyone would do it so break a sweat and get some . Don’t damage the joist and you win.

  38. A lot of 1' cuts , use the pieces as its own leverage, folding back and forth, but be gentle ben , that plaster & lathe lid below is old as f. A K so try to pull as nss as my nails as possible too . Before you dtartcc V working the plywood pieces off. Welcome to the world of Remodeing, believe it or not I've been on much worse sites. ( 200 year old gothic church,east ave , Rochester NY , complete Reno)

  39. Sawzall along the joist then use a power scraper on the top of the joist . Liquid nails should be outlawed. Had tiles glued down with it once.

  40. Pull all fasteners. Then make cross cuts so you're dealing with 8"-10" pieces. Then get a chipper/hammer drill with a heavy sxraper blade and go to town, for a beer and then go home.

  41. I had to use a sidewalk/ice scraper tool that I bought at a big box home improvement store. I scored the center of the joists, chopped out a notch and then was able to get under the board and break apart the adhesion. It was a b*tch.

  42. Pro tip, to make a renovation easier on a future contractor, skip the glue. Hell, dont even use screws, gravity will hold the sheets down. /s

  43. You much first accept that your soul will be demoed by the liquid nails. Only then can you harness the true power of your frustrations to defeat the liquid nails

  44. Cut out the sections in between the joists with a circular saw and then use a chilling hammer to chip the glued part off of the stud, this method is the easiest, fastest method I’ve found


  46. Cut them close to the joist and then saw down the glue line from the side. Go slow enough that you still have control of the saw cutting direction. “sawzall” type saw is the best choice if available. Circular saw would be easier to control but it’s too dangerous with the nails ur cutting through

  47. A lot of times you have to have take it out to the framing then start over. It’ll be the same amount of time than if you try and do the top layer

  48. I remember watching a trade d4 glue everything to death into some hermetically sealed floor chamber when it first became a thing and thinking you really need to be sure nothing ever goes wrong under there until your dead and buried (to avoid the call back pain)

  49. I had to do this in my home recently. Used a saw to cut the perimeter, cut into small pieces, and the biggest help of all was cutting wedges out of 2x4s and getting them under the ply and hammering it along the joists. Do this on every joist and the sheets lift up. Worked extremely well. Better than anything else I tried. Good luck.

  50. Here’s what I would do. Find the joist layout. Chalk lines on the inside of each joist, cut these with a circular saw. Pull these out, maybe cross cut them down a bit, to make them easier to handle. Now score cut the remaining flooring where it’s attached to you your joists, perpendicular to the direction of the joist. Now you only have small chunks left to take up, rather than big tough pieces. Messy, but it’s a method I’ve used for this exact thing before. Please wear a respirator for dust and ventilate the space while you work. Hope that makes sense

  51. Man, I hate jobs like this. I've used a 5 lb sledge and a wide tile chisel before. Honestly, I don't think anything will make it easy, you're going to have to work at it. BTW, every time I lay a floor, I use liquid nails. LOL

  52. I feel you brother! Once had to demo Hardie board that some jack ass liquid nailed down to the subfloor. Absolute nightmare scenario!

  53. I’d cut parallel to the joists first and then perpendicular cuts every foot or so. You should then be able to lift one side of each section and “torque” it off the joist. Cleanup remnants with chisel.

  54. Once you cut the material from between the joists, use a sawzall and a short demo blade to cute between plywood and joist. If you feel confident enough, you can use a circular saw in the more open areas, using the saw on its “side”

  55. Don’t fight it. Cut along each side of every joist so all that’s left are strips of plywood on top of the joists, almost like furring. The floor was that high before, so what’s wrong with it being that high again? There could be a very good reason why not that high again, in which case I agree with basically scoring the shit out of it until you can more easily chisel it off.

  56. Cut to the side of the joist, use an oscillating saw under the plywood, it works amazingly well. I had luan glued down before I installed hardwood and it lifted it up in seconds

  57. Sawsall and wedges, expose an edge over the joist, so for example the exposed joist on the right side, with the 6 inches of plywood on top, jam a wedge in between the joist and the plywood, once youve started to lift the plywood and you feel like youre gonna snap the plywood before it seperated anymore from the joist, run your sawsall in the gap, slowly gnawing off the bottom layer of ply and the glue, trying not to chew up the joist

  58. Ima tell you a little back. Couple blocks and a 2x6x whatever the fuck length you can fit in there. Use it like a crowbar.

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