I've heard about thermal problems or even lack of thermal coupling from CPU to the chassis but that can be fixed by repasting and/or adding a fan to improve heat dissipation. The unit will be kept in data cabinet with rest of network devices, so additional fan won't make a difference for me.
I have the 4 port N5105 model. Running OPNsense under Proxmox. With Zenarmor and Crowdesc enabled, I can still get full internet speed (Xfinity 1200/40). I don't run any other IDS/IPS.
Easier with one device, but much harder/more expensive to upgrade in the future(Wifi 7 is around the corner). For Routers, look at Ubiquiti, TP-Link Omada or Mikrotik. For Access Points, look at Ubiquiti or Netgear WAX6XX(Aruba InstantOn and TP-LINK Omada are also good but don't have 6e).
I'm struggling to find a router with 10Gbe ports, but what I found is a switch with 2x10Gbase-t and 4x2.5Gbe ports. What I care about is transfer speed in my LAN network at the moment so if I connect the AP to the switch together with NAS, PC, etc, will that give me any speed advantage?
In UK north west its rarely going below freezing so I suppose in non insulated single brick wall it will be fine as it should keep it couple of degrees higher than the ouside temp.
Had some trouble with them myself with returning damaged screen. After about 2 or 3 months I just reported them to my bank and received my money within a week.
Did you work through Paypal? My worry is that they will ship something before it gets resolved and I need to wait 2 months for a defective product with no support.
Good for you. I did make mine working but some time ago the sensor started going crazy and pausing my prints in random moments, so after playing with it for a while I ended up disconnecting it completely. Recently my printer started shifting layers which may be caused by overheating/bad mcu and I haven't had time to look at it properly.
If your sensor is randomly pausing and it's the Creality one, it's because it is a bad design on the inside. If you open it up, you'll see what I'm talking about. The spring isn't held in it's spot right. You can find an insert on Thingiverse that solves the issue, or cut a piece of plastic or wood to fill in the space. It won't have the problem anymore.
I just printed a calibration cube and it came out fine. Will definitely try cooling the board and see if that helps. I am wondering now, if overheating is the case, why it happened so sudennly. I had 8h print on Wednesday, had 40h ones and went through a few rolles of filament since I bought the printer, and 2 days after a successful print the layers started shifting. Did you find a root cause of the mainboard overheating?
This was happening year ago. At first some people were able to solve it by increasing the cooling, but later they were getting skipping again. In the beginning, Creality was just sending new boards, but later they changed, claiming it's grounding issue and were sending out repair kits and making how-to repair videos on YouTube.
While looking for a new KlipperScreen device I found this guide on how to use any Android device with an X Server app to use as a KlipperScreen output device. It works amazingly well!
I'm new to the printing world but aren't you defeating purpose of the enclosure by adding vents? In my understanding enclosure should limit airflow and raise temperature to allow printing more difficult materials like ABS.
Had the same idea, however it seems most of the Chinese vendors are a disaster, topton:
I've heard about thermal problems or even lack of thermal coupling from CPU to the chassis but that can be fixed by repasting and/or adding a fan to improve heat dissipation. The unit will be kept in data cabinet with rest of network devices, so additional fan won't make a difference for me.
I have the 4 port N5105 model. Running OPNsense under Proxmox. With Zenarmor and Crowdesc enabled, I can still get full internet speed (Xfinity 1200/40). I don't run any other IDS/IPS.
So it seems like the lowest model I choose is going to be enough. Are you utilising more than 8GB for OPN sense though?
Asus makes one, the
I was thinking about it but thought this will be easier solution. What router and AP would you recommend? Or which brands should I research?
Easier with one device, but much harder/more expensive to upgrade in the future(Wifi 7 is around the corner). For Routers, look at Ubiquiti, TP-Link Omada or Mikrotik. For Access Points, look at Ubiquiti or Netgear WAX6XX(Aruba InstantOn and TP-LINK Omada are also good but don't have 6e).
I'm struggling to find a router with 10Gbe ports, but what I found is a switch with 2x10Gbase-t and 4x2.5Gbe ports. What I care about is transfer speed in my LAN network at the moment so if I connect the AP to the switch together with NAS, PC, etc, will that give me any speed advantage?
Keep the battery above freezing at all costs.
In UK north west its rarely going below freezing so I suppose in non insulated single brick wall it will be fine as it should keep it couple of degrees higher than the ouside temp.
Try this:
What charger do you mean? The link is to a calculator.
Had some trouble with them myself with returning damaged screen. After about 2 or 3 months I just reported them to my bank and received my money within a week.
Did you work through Paypal? My worry is that they will ship something before it gets resolved and I need to wait 2 months for a defective product with no support.
I just reported it to bank as it's easier option for me.
Got it figured out. I went back to my 3 wire setup, I swapped my signal and voltage wire on my switch and working as it should now.
Good for you. I did make mine working but some time ago the sensor started going crazy and pausing my prints in random moments, so after playing with it for a while I ended up disconnecting it completely. Recently my printer started shifting layers which may be caused by overheating/bad mcu and I haven't had time to look at it properly.
If your sensor is randomly pausing and it's the Creality one, it's because it is a bad design on the inside. If you open it up, you'll see what I'm talking about. The spring isn't held in it's spot right. You can find an insert on Thingiverse that solves the issue, or cut a piece of plastic or wood to fill in the space. It won't have the problem anymore.
I've made a sensor myself out of the spare z stop but the sensor itself was fine. My board must have had some issues prior to failing completely.
What is the file extension after download?
Im sorry but im not sure of what you mean.
The file extension are the letters after the dot in the file name, e.g. .zip, .tz, .bin, etc.
What do you use to clean them? I think I destroyed mine anyway... Had a little fire and now I have to use over 40% instead of 10-15% for cutting 😒
Hello. Does it look like the issues I had with my 4.2.2 board? For me and some commenters the answer was better mainboard cooling.
I just printed a calibration cube and it came out fine. Will definitely try cooling the board and see if that helps. I am wondering now, if overheating is the case, why it happened so sudennly. I had 8h print on Wednesday, had 40h ones and went through a few rolles of filament since I bought the printer, and 2 days after a successful print the layers started shifting. Did you find a root cause of the mainboard overheating?
This was happening year ago. At first some people were able to solve it by increasing the cooling, but later they were getting skipping again. In the beginning, Creality was just sending new boards, but later they changed, claiming it's grounding issue and were sending out repair kits and making how-to repair videos on YouTube.
Did you just connect a grounding cable to a bolt on the motor or did you come up with a nicer solution?
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No, it sticks to the bed well.
Just checked, i owe you £1, sorry!
I'm gonna be rich 😀
Don't think there is. Used to be maplin and the odd thing at clas ohlsen, but think it's just gonna be online now.
Yeah, Maplin came handy a few times. Thanks for response.
Ender 3 v2 has micro usb
While looking for a new KlipperScreen device I found this guide on how to use any Android device with an X Server app to use as a KlipperScreen output device. It works amazingly well!
Have you got a link?
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Thanks
I have the same issue with them. Touch screen arrived smashed and they also insisting on replacement. Emails go back and forth for 2 weeks now.
I did and reconnected all still is bkue
Did you try to reflash firmware?
how?
https://m.all3dp.com/2/ender-3-with-marlin-how-to-install-marlin-firmware-on-your-ender-3/
I think you should have 24v fan, not 12v😉
Am I the only one that put the cable in the sleeve when doing this upgrade?
Nah, I've done the same.
Cat robot or try to make it work with different firmware and accessories 😉
Is spring tight enough? Did you checked if arm isn't broken? You might have skipping gears also due to low temp or clog in the nozzle.
Nice. Don't board and PSU overheat when printing?
I have two side vents and a rear vent cutout at the bottom to allow airflow to the boards. May have to make adjustments.
I'm new to the printing world but aren't you defeating purpose of the enclosure by adding vents? In my understanding enclosure should limit airflow and raise temperature to allow printing more difficult materials like ABS.
Download jayers firmware with bl touch, then in settings you can find runout sensor option.
I'd check the rails and wheels for any debris or damage, then try to tighten eccentric nut. Just don't do them too tight as you'll increase wear.