A few 75mm minis printed on the Mighty 8K using a mix of 20% Onyx Impact Plus and 80% Aqua Grey 8K (Models: Loot Studios & Claymore Miniatures)
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- By - -Rhaenya-
Tennessee volunteer: This war is hell, the stuff you see here will be with you forever. I saw a lot of shit before i came to Ukraine, but nothing comes even close.
A glowing commendation for all to see
- By - antrophist
Is a camera even necessary normally in a printer?
Well, no. It's an extra feature. But if you pay for it, you'd like it to work properly
This is a known bug in the 1.3.6b firmware. It seems to happen when used in combination with Lychee slicer. So either use a different slicer, print smaller stuff for now till they fix it or revert back to the previous.
I don't see how people think these matches are fun... All of these kind of matches i'v had so far were SUPER BORING.
Hi all, my Anycubic Mono 4k makes this horrible cranking noise like the motor continues to turn despite being at home, it then stops and starts to print. Has anybody experienced this before and know how to fix it? This has only started in the past week and I’ve had the printer best part of a year now.
I had the same thing with my Phrozen 8k mighty. Try using multiple A4 sheets when leveling. Keep adding A4 sheets until the sounds stops. You can just do dry run prints to test it out. For me i had to use 3 or 4 sheets of paper.
I paid my instructor in cash too, sure this was almost 20 yrs ago. But i dont think many instructors have a mobile pin terminal in their cars
What 9 hours of painting does to a man.
wear a glove, also prevents your sweat/greasy hands from rubbing off paint.
If only they just did what DOTA and LoL did, just sell skins instead of loot boxes. Even if you dont have a giant e-sports scene, it might have sustained the game and maybe even raked in some profit.
Does adding onix impact make them able to withstand being dropped from reasonable heights?
Looks awesome!
Never heard of the term before, not quite sure
The "harder" your water is, the more calcium (or lime?) is in the water. It mainly depends on the area you live in and what kind of water is used for the tap.
The D2 is such a great machine. I wish there was more DLP printers.
I would love a DLP printer (thats affordable) with a 10" build plate like my Phrozen Mighty 8K. That's the only thing holding me back, i need that bigger build plate.
They're your models, your paint, 100% your choice. If you want to make Golden Imperial Guard troopers, go for it! If you think it's cool or fun, that's the only reason you need.
I rolled it back because it crushes large prints. Camera is pretty useless. I could never find where it put any photo that it said it took. The estimated time is wrong in 1.2.6 and 1.3.6b. says 1 minute left but has like 60 layers to do. Would be nice to see the layers or possibly swap the camera thumbnail (which is useless) for the layer image. If they do fix the camera it should be time lapse for sure.
i found out about it crushing big prints the hard way... broke off a piece + damaged my FEP beyond use. Didn't puncture it thankfully
I have started to remove supports before curing
I'v tried this, but i'd still end up with scars on my print. Also gives a lot of mess tbh
Put the print in hot (not boiling) water for a few seconds before curing. Supports get off really well that way.
how does hot water interact with uncured resin?
I saw a joke a while back. Something like:
Zelenskyy told a version of this joke in his interview with David Letterman, it's on Netflix i believe. Great interview
That. Looks. Awesome!
Never use latex gloves, they react very badly to IPA.
pre wash with IPA and a toothbrush to get crap out of details, then into wash station for 3 minutes - let dry and cure OR rinse with water and cure under water (best finish IME, no white shit).
the "white shit" is because of the IPA i think. Whenever i cured a model still wet from IPA it always had this white stuff on it. Now, i wait for it to dry and then cure it and i never have it again.
I print 30 and 50um. Both I use 2.4 sec exposure time for normal layers and 25 for the first few. I use phrozen 4k resin though. Only times stuff was ripped off the supports was when I had a suction cup. You can also try uv tools to check your cbt files
The irony is real
If you let it rest for a day or so, sediment will collect on the bottom. you can pour out the alcohol into a 2nd bucket untill you see the sediment coming out too. then just pour that into a seperate container. You can either let it evaporate or if you're into recycling, filter (both buckets). You can use coffee filters for this and/or activated carbon and you can re-use it once it looks more or less clear again.
Yup!
extra tip: If your dry brushing ends up looking a bit chalky, try to put some lahmian medium on it (contrast medium might work? i dunno, never tried).
Do you think it looks bad? It doesn't look too bad to me. Originally it did on his spine but it looks better now that its dried.
I dont think what you did is bad at all, but i found that if you use dry brushing with very dry paint it'll create this chalky effect. adding a tiny bit of moisture can lessen this effect.
I did thin the paint but maybe just not enougth
it needs to be like a milky consistence. Put it on, wait for it to dry and put another layer on till it's fully covered
10th edition?! we literally just got all codexes for 9th ... :|
Save? They likely make an absolute killing on selling Codex for each faction and everything in-between
sure, but they can still charge for it... just you know, make it digital only (usable offline). Imagine the amount of resources they'd save
Micro Set and Micro Sol. It’s magic. Not only do they get the transfer to conform to the surface smoothly, they give the transfer a painted on look which works really well.
These works great! But, you can also make tiny cuts with a hobby knife at the points you're expecting it to bend. Though micro set + micro sol are the best and easiest solution