tallnskinnymikey


























  1. Hard to say with 100% certainty, but looks like: 1 Oak 2 Walnut 3 Mahogany or Sapele

  2. Or Jezza, maybe they could co-principal so we get the epic bickering

  3. Wood dye or gel stain, and make sure it’s thoroughly dry before applying clear coat

  4. The can should tell you the full dry/cure time, not just the dry time between coats…but it my experience it can take days to weeks for tung oil to fully dry depending on environmental conditions and how thick/how many coats you applied

  5. Hi All! I’m almost ready to finish this solid oak coffee table but every time I put a clear coat, the oak turns slightly yellow. When I sand it, it goes back to a nice white oak look. Any way to keep the yellowing to a minimum?

  6. Didn’t see this when I first commented…but most water based products I know of have at least a 24hr dry time before sanding to fully cure

  7. The product you used should tell you the drying times…depends on what product you used, oil base vs water base, lacquer vs polyurethane vs oil vs varnish, etc…

  8. In some hardwoods like mahogany/walnut/oak, you gotta predrill to almost the size of the threads and you could dip the tip of the screw in some wax to help prevent that from happening

  9. The MEK might take away some color from the Purple Heart and Paduk, I’d imagine most enzymes that kill urine odor n sanitize would do the same

  10. How easy is it to take off the doors? Looks like a full sand/stain/finish to me…if you don’t want to do all that, you could try a product like Howard’s Restor-A-Finish.

  11. I think Stumpy Nubs has some good videos on sharpening…can’t find the one I was thinking of at the moment

  12. Yes, use a microfiber rag or cheesecloth…if it’s a big piece might want to use a buffer to Polish rather than elbow grease

  13. No tremolo? Either way, as a guy who worked at Rickenbacker (final assembly/tester/quality check) it’s a gorgeous axe. Always loved the telecasters

  14. Nope, not for my first but maybe in the future. Thanks for the compliment!

  15. If you do, get a decent locking nut and it should help it stay in tune

  16. A dividing head and a milking machine the proper tools, but I’m sure there’s a jig you could make

  17. Right, so a 2x4 @104-5/8" is basically a nominal 2 in x 4 in (2 inches deep, 4 inches wide), at 104.625 inches long?

  18. Now I’m gonna mess it all up by saying a 2 x 4 does not actually measure 2” x 4”…it’s closer to 1.5” x 3”

  19. No that's okay, the 38 x 89 is using 1.5" x 3.5", as the chart provided above does say you need to subtract 0.5 inches before converting, due to actual vs nominal

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