1. I would delete two of your three tables. I’ve worked on all types of benches from plywood to butcher block oak with all the bells and whistles. Honestly the best in my opinion is 4x8 melamine on 2x4 base with casters. These crazy nice benches look stunning, but provide no advantage over a sheet except you feel like you can’t work on it for fear of damaging it. The sheet gets replaced monthly and its good to go. You need space for a compressor and a wide belt/drum sander. In such a small space I would prioritize machine layout over storage, bathroom and lumber storage. Maybe a container for storage and a portapotty outside. All small stuff gets hung from walls. A lot of these machines don’t need dedicated areas. I would have drill press router table band saw on casters near a common dust collector that could be pulled out when needed then stored. When I was setting up my shop I didn’t account for a staging area. We make cabinets and dry fitting a kitchen needs a ton of floor space. Hope some of that helps if not disregard. Cheers

  2. That's not a cabinet maker. Please don't call him that. You are not over reacting at all. I don't know what you paid so I guess that's a factor but I want need him to fix about 10 things in this picture.

  3. Agree on the versatility of the w&h, not sure why you struggled with beading frames on a shaper though.

  4. This seems more fool proof if parts aren't perfectly milled. I've had my power feeder not take slight bows out of boards before and then that piece is firewood. Struggled is probably the wrong word. This is definitely easier and better tho

  5. Fair enough. I can't say I've run into that before, but all my door and frame stock is run over the jointer and culled/cut down if too far out of flat/straight.

  6. I get 500 feet of maple at a time. Usually 350 ft s3s for moulding and face frame stock and 150ft rough that I face join for doors. We need to get alot out the door and I just don't have time to face join it all and you can usually straighten most of it out when you attach it to the box. But I hear you Ina perfect world everything is face joined and made nicey nice. Nice to see a few guys still doing it the right way

  7. It's also thin for a butcher block. As others have said don't store flat but also a thicker board would help

  8. I considered purchasing a CNC, but for what I intend to use it for would require a costly investment that I can't afford. I looked into CAD too. I don't draw well and some of my future plans require design, which means I need to visualize. I'm old school, grew up without computers, so operating CAD is intimidating. How do I learn? Lol I studied Japanese carpentry in Japan, lived there 9 years. It was block plane, chisels and lots of easy meteic mathematics. Then I came back to USA and guys couldn't do math and were wood butchers. I appreciate both aspects of old school and modernization. After all some of the most brilliant projects were performed with and without technology. Take for example the Taj Mahal and then the tallest skyscrapers in Dubai. Final product, craftsmanship, and aesthetic beauty is what holds us captive and advances in technology are tools along the way. Years ago electric tools would have been blasphemous to the profession, but we all use them second nature now. I think the Swiss and Japanese have brilliant craft schools where students are required to accumulate both advanced traditional skills and then move into technology. If you can't pass the hand tool classes you get dismissed... and that means design the old fashioned way. Sorry I wrote so much... hope someone can appreciate my opinion.

  9. All makes perfect sense to me. Wood working is a massive umbrella that encompasses hand tool masters that make one rocking chair a year to massive production shops that make 5 kitchens a week and you need advanced degrees to run equient. It takes all kinds ans we need to be open to and respect all aspects of the craft.

  10. And yet somehow, construction is turning over the worst installations to date.

  11. I hear you. My installers are good tho. They take the time and go through everything correctly. As far as the stain grade goes we make everything the same. Paint grade and stain grade gets held to the same tolerances just different materials. But I hear you there’s a lot of hacks out there. Have to get enough to pay the guys to do it right

  12. Depends what your doing. A stand alone part you’re probably fine. I make cabinets for a living and almost every part relates to other parts. When there added together thousands add up to 1/8ths. I would stop at 1.750. My two cents. In all fairness almost all my machines are digital to the thousands so it’s not more work to be very accurate.

  13. Blum makes both a +45 and -45 hinge that would mount to a 0mm plate. Find your local Blum distributor and ask them. I can’t remember which one that is

  14. Just did, looks like I have a 2 hour drive ahead of me. Thanks mate

  15. What is the vent on the base under the tv for

  16. That seems like much more work and material then framing them traditionally

  17. We make our own. Grab a used William and Hussey and never look back

  18. It looks like he cut those with a skill saw. Makes me so happy to have the guys I do. I wouldn’t let this guy base closets

  19. Looks great. But I gotta ask… why are the countertop boards uneven at the ends? Have you not applied finish yet?

  20. The tops finished but it get fit in between two decorative panels left and right so my installers will cut all that off

  21. I’d like to get into woodworking and build some shelves and cabinets. I’ve done some woodworking in the past, but nothing where precision was very important.

  22. That’s a really old model. Not a big deal those are great saws that will run forever but I think it’s a right tilt. They are really dangerous especially with such a powerful baldor motor. There are reasons for a right tilt but for a someone green to cabinet saws I would pass on this. Also that’s too much money for that saw. That should sell for around 500. Lastly make sure it’s not three phase electrical when your looking at cabinet equipment.

  23. There’s a few brands of laminate that offer stainless in a bunch of finishes. I’d go that route that way you can machine it yourself. Get a sheet of 1 inch Baltic Birch and veneer the laminate on and trim it flush with a router. Easy

  24. Anything I can’t use my power feeder for on my shaper

  25. If it’s a 3/4 door with a flat panel use 1/2 inch mdf for your panel. Instead of doing a reverse panel raise do a dato that leaves the back of the panel flush with the back of the door. Set your dato so there is 1/16 reveal between rails and panel. Then bore as normal you’ll split the rails and panel with 35 mm bore but it’s fast and works. I wouldn’t do it on really high end jobs but it’s fine for most stuff

  26. A for sure. Two inch back from leading edge. I would recommend pucks tho. There’s a lot of good options that are made for cabinets and the spot light effect always feels a little nicer to me. Easier install as well for you

  27. Festool track saw is the only option that’s not tens of thousands of dollars to cut panels. With the grain any table saw will do it but cross cuts saws really struggle on plywood. Short of a router or panel saw track saw is really your only option

  28. Thank you. I draw in a software called cabinet vision. It gives me a pretty decent stock list down to bd ft, sheet good, hardware, everything. I punch in the price I’m paying for everything and get a stock price. I have a spread sheet that I track labor cost with so I have a good handle on what my linear foot prices are to build cabinets. Then it’s how much I can up sell based on the current market and where the cabinets are going, who it’s for, etc. an install in the city is considerably more then an install in the burbs you know. It’s all factored together and I get my number. For basic rough budget numbers tho I just do it off linear ft of cabinets

  29. Thank you! I have just been using a base price per linear foot without really going into detail of what it’s actually costing, but I want to have a more in-depth system like what you described. I have just been using sketchup, but it would be nice to use a software like what you’re using. Is that software expensive?

  30. Ya very. I’m into it for about 10 and I only have about 1/4 of the program. It has posts that’s send cut list automatically to machines. You can hit go and your cnc will cut the cases and your razor gauge will auto cycle cuts on the chop saw. In terms of pricing It’s crucial to know what it cost you to make cabinets. On you next job save all your slips, track your hours, add it all up and see what it cost. I bet it’s a lot more then you think. I doubled my price when I saw it all on paper. You may be really busy and cranking out work but if your not making money what’s the point you know

  31. What was your “cutting and buffing” process after finishing the final coat of the 2k acrylic poly? Also what sheen of 2k acrylic topcoat did you spray?

  32. The top coats are clear high gloss which is some where around 95 sheen. I do one or two sanding stages like 1200 then 2000 wet sand. Then it’s cutting for ever with the wool pad. Three progressively higher grit compounds. Get into podcast. Question your life and everything around you. Think days not hours. Once all swirl marks and scratches are removed throw on the buffing wheel and do the highest grit compound again. Final step is a polishing compound in the buff wheel

  33. Sounds like a lot of work after the final coat goes on! Very nice work. Did you learn the cutting/buffing process from any YouTube videos, or did someone train you? I do a lot of spraying, but have never learned to polish my work (thankfully, high gloss jobs are rare for me, usually do satin or low sheen so no need for polishing)

  34. I watched a few videos, mostly automotive guys and trial and error. There’s a shop near me that has a painted who is known as the best finished around. His buff jobs make mine look like trash. I would pay to watch him do it and learn

  35. Yeah. Because they make a lot of money off people who don’t mind buying garbage that’s wearing a mask. It’s sawdust, with makeup.

  36. Some of the most expensive, highest quality furniture available is veneer. There’s an argument to be made that it’s more dimensionally stable then solid wood. Often the grade of veneer is so much higher then even fas lumber that the veneer sheets are more expensive then doing it in hardwood. And with the meticulous nature of veneer it’s always a much more labor intensive process. I don’t think you should be judging other folks hard work and lifetime of achievement by it’s ability to withstand being thrown down a flight of stairs or hit by a car. Also kreg screws are the mdf of joinery. They barely stumble over the line into acceptable joinery, but in many instances come up short. I’ll keep my opinions to myself about visible pocket screws as difference in taste, but as someone who makes a living making cabinets and furniture, calling veneer garbage, is ignorant

  37. I understand the benefit of the application of these different materials.

  38. Compound ignorance. You don’t know that you don’t know

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