felvnation






















  1. The location is good and the owner hires generally attractive people. The drinks are stiff too. Besides that there is nothing positive whatsoever. Overpriced, crappy food with mediocre service, but a great stop for a drink to start the evening.

  2. Call a white cap construction supply. A ‘husqvarna water coupler’ part # 6175032660033

  3. Much more reliable. Still jams here and there but much easier to fix and get going again. It is definitely worth it if you’re tying a lot of bar.

  4. I sell Makita max and benner Nawman guns at my shop in Northern cal. I have found that the max ties the tightest but they all eventually break down and max’s lead time on repairs is ridiculous. Bn and Makita have a 1-2 week turnaround and max averages 6 months. As a supplier it’s tough want to push it. They all eventually break down because they get the shit beat out of them. The twintier is definitely the best on the market regarding speed, tightness of tie, and amount of wire used per tie. And it will tie two #7 bars together which is legit. But the wire is twice as expensive and as I mentioned when it breaks down you take a number

  5. hey i'm in your neck of the woods, thanks for the advice, may have to test out a makita since im on their platform and only tie bar once or twice a year for big projects.

  6. Makita is a good tool. They’re also the only gun on the market that will use someone else’s wire. They are compatible with not only the Makita wire (which costs less) but the max 898 wire as well

  7. Awesome. I Appreciate the response. It almost completely goes away when wet. Sounds like what I have.

  8. No worries! Might take more than one application of efflorescence remover fyi

  9. Thanks. Any recommendations on brand or maybe brands to avoid?

  10. ‘Gst clean concrete’ is the one I’m familiar with but I’m sure they’re mostly the same

  11. Does it stay blotchy when it’s wet? It might just be calcium. I see a lot of that on here. If so, search ‘gst efflorescence remover’ and make sure you neutralize afterward to avoid etching.

  12. Yes it’s still blotchy when wet. But the tone is more even when fully saturated. However, when wet, the lighter areas darken and look like a film with crazing. It’s so weird. It looks best after several hot days of no rain.

  13. Hmmmm definitely a moisture issue, but how to solve? I’d still start with an efflorescence remover over muriatic, less margin for error. Might take a couple of applications. When you get it even, put ‘creto dps’ over the top in a thin coat. Then seal topically if you want it to look wet

  14. Fuck thank you. For all of the faults of western culture we like to talk about, native Hawaiians were still in the Stone Age 300 years ago when James cook ‘discovered’ it. Like much of human history, there was subjugation. That sucks. But I’d much rather see deep into the universe for all mankind than protect a sacred site for a minuscule and ever-dwindling population of truly religious natives. Sorry you got thrown into the melting pot, but chill out it’s nice in here

  15. There’s lots to dissect with plenty of good comments already. Imo I can zoom 4 pictures on any slab and make it look like shit. Not saying it’s a good or bad job, I just can’t tell well enough to make an anonymous internet decision. The spots zoomed do look sloppy but turning liquid into stone can be tough. Someone mentioned float marks, that’s my belief too. Hopped on too late I’d assume. Maybe the truck showed up hot who knows 1000 things can happen that are in or out of the contractors control. Personally I’d like to know how much was charged. If he charged you out the ass then it’s worth at least negotiating a discounted price. Give it a couple months. Look into a product called ‘antique-it’ by brickform and apply it before your seal. It’ll help hide anything that jumps out.

  16. I saw those pictures. You would have had much different responses if you had made the post with the picture of the coping. Also it’s a pool deck with a channel drain it looks like. You sure it’s only 1300sf? It looks much bigger. Did he do the pool? Did he do the retaining walls?

  17. 40k for the whole job , which includes backfill with rocks, compacting down the rocks, pouring and stamping, and some drains.

  18. $30/sf? Wow. That is crazy. Just a back patio?

  19. The ‘Aztec calendar’ stamp. People pay good money to have that done, it’s very difficult to do perfectly because of all the fines detail. It looks like they missed the edges a bit…

  20. Here’s what you do: pressure wash it really well w a 3-4k psi pressure washer and be sure not to etch the slab. Then buy a product called ‘antique-it’ by brickform. You’re probably looking at a medium or dark gray color. Apply the product, then apply a sealer and maintain it. Honestly it’s not a bad job but I see the concern

  21. I'm almost done with my cobblestone walkway. Could I do the same to it as well?

  22. Consider grinding the top surface to clean and profile it, then follow back up with something like ‘Westcoat macoat’ which is a decorative waterproof overlay for concrete balconies.

  23. Thanks! I was going to pay a professional anyways, rather than doing it myself and risking making it worse. Was more just curious if concrete kept damp and unsealed for a long time would still be okay after it's done properly on the surface

  24. It can. It definitely needs to have some dry time first though

  25. Slightly differing amounts of water between bags. Super common and difficult to avoid. It looks like a good job, overlays are not easy. Color will blend over time, otherwise use ‘newlook endurastain’ to pick a color and apply it. Then make sure to maintain a sealer. My advice? Live with it if there’s no other issues

  26. Give it time. In two years the sealer will be worn off and the dark gray will have mostly gone with it. If it has to be fixed right now, just use a coatings remover like franmar 600gl and remove it. Easy peasy it looks great

  27. Thanks felv! Also is mesh/screening always needed in 4" stamped concrete? My guy said it wasn't necessary.

  28. I’d suggest rebar or wire mesh in just about any slab poured

  29. My budget isn't big since I try to keep the league cheap. I have about 5k per season and can only run 2 seasons a year.

  30. If that’s the case consider patching the cracks with ‘crackbond csr’ and keeping functionality the priority. Uv-stable epoxies are expensive, and your budget isn’t realistic for it

  31. So I’m finally getting to buying this. I can only find this size (1.625in diameter) in bulk. The box stores do not sell this size in a few feet. Any help?

  32. You’d have to buy in at least a 10’ strip. Where are you located? I sell them at SpecWest concrete systems in chico ca. they run about $45 ea

  33. I’m in AZ but I appreciate it. If I find a local concrete company is it likely they may have it on hand for me to buy a smaller piece?

  34. Yes they put that in for drainage under normal circumstances you would be using fiber expansion material which is a black asphalt-impregnated strip usually 10’ long 3-4” tall and 3/8-1/2 wide

  35. It looks a lot like moisture trapped under the sealer. Do what the other guy said and spray some xylene on it, let it dry and see if that let the moisture out. If not, another coat of sealer should take care of it

  36. This guy is spot on. Sealer failed. Xylene. Careful putting a third coat on though over applying can create the same issues

  37. Clearly the slab has sunk at the end. Find out why

  38. By the looks of it there’s no rebar in the slab which helps explain why the crack moved so much. Also the first comment about water undermining the front end is on point. If you decide to cap it bear in mind if the underlying issues are not remedied you’re just kicking a can down the road

  39. Lots to dissect here Was there proper surface prep? Acid stains need porosity in order to get into the cream of the concrete and react with the free lime. Assuming the acidity of the stain exfoliates the surface is only partially correct 36hrs is too long an exposure for an acid stain. 1-4 is typical, and whatever color you put down first will be most prevalent. You’re chemically rusting the surface based on how much catalyst is available for reaction. Point being, the green isn’t going to come through much if the brown was down for a long time. Acid stains famously look like shit until you seal them. Acid stained concrete looks dry and brittle until it’s sealed. If you want to see what it looks like sealed get it wet with water. Don’t seal a concrete surface until the concrete is entirely dry

  40. Start by cleaning the crap out of it. Gas-powered pressure wash minimum. Coatings grab the pores of the surface. On the outside, water-based stain followed by something like Westcoat ec-95 or Hdip’s endurable 2pt w/b polyurethane. On the top, remember that any waterproof membrane you put on top is susceptible to uv exposure. If you want to skim the top and make it look ‘fresh’, ardex twp is a good albeit pricey product. I might go with creto’s dps over the top and call it potatoes.

  41. Efflorescence is famously white and chalky and disappears when wet. Looks more like goop from the window frame or some other externality. Def not termites or efflorescence

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