Oak handrail install
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- By - jcupp70
brianfuckyouwasmund
Gives 100 Reddit Coins and a week of r/lounge access and ad-free browsing.
I'm a carpenter, I have 4 18v drills, 3 impacts, a holewlhawg, half inch corded drill, 3/8 corded and 2 2-stroke gas drills
Metal circ saws are lower rpm, have better arbor seals and larger bearings in my experience. 3/16" will eat up a wood circ pretty fast.
I've cut thousands of feet of 1/4 plate with a steel demon on a regular worm drive saw. Only been through 2 blades too. I do keep an eye on the temp of the motor with an inferred thermometer and stop cutting when it gets too hot, but I keep the saw running with no load to cool it down.
I do kind of hate having to taper jambs when making a box like this though. I'm not saying he did a great job here but I've definitely been in this situation and thought screw it I'm picking the biggest dimension, or close to it. If it's not a fancy trim package you gotta stay efficient.
I kinda feel like it's a toss up between tapering the jamb extensions and doing as he has done here, I prefer to not taper the jamb, because generally that's more noticeable than having an un-even reveal at the wall. Obviously this wall is really bad, but having that big of a taper would look pretty bad too.
I've had this same router with the plunge base and I've put it through hell, I've used a 6 inch long spiral flute bit that was meant for a cnc router in it to cut pockets for fasteners and its still not showing any signs of wear
My dad used to chew, he would spit in empty nail boxes on the job and a lot of the time he wouldn't check to see if they were empty, so you would go to grab a handful of nails and they would be covered with spit. It was fucking gross, I feel your pain
Half the carpenters around me would just use red chalk. I don't know how many times I've been on a job and theres red chalk on stained t&g cedar or across deck boards thats been there for years. I've used the wet line before, but doesn't work well when it's really hot out. I've had good luck with white chalk, it comes right off. If I am hand driving, I will just lay it out with a tape and pencil though.
We have 4x12 sheets now
Use a steel rod and cups. I've installed many that were 5 feet long and they don't sag. If you cut the closet pole as tight as possible to the cups, the length of the screw won't matter. You are relying on the diameter of the screw for strength, not the length of the screw.
Definitely the most blowjob-positive trade
So they blow each other all the time? Or is it the apprentices job?
But then where will you pee?
The sink will still be there. I was working in my garage and saw some jo-ho's walking towards my house, so I acted like I was taking a piss in the utility sink in my garage, they turned around and left. Before that, I never really thought about peeing in the utility sink, but now it's my shop urinal.
Is that short for jehovah's witnesses? If so I love it
Yes
I hear people call it homasote, but we call it celotex here. I've used it as sound deadening for flooring and walls. You can get tarred celotex that we've used for protection board for foundation damp proofing too.
Didn't realize that a shop could actually be complete. I thought people just stopped when they ran out of money or space lol.
One man's complete shop is another man's starting point. If this we my shop, my next step would be getting a real air compressor
With an air drier
Those are good projects to build yourself
I had a combat wombat!
I've had a handful of hodakas over the years. Fully restored a couple. I took one to hodaka days years back in Athena oregon
I guess the Internet makes getting parts for them much easier than it used to be.
For sure. Hodaka-parts.com was invaluable. There's also a motorcycle salvage yard near me that actually had a few Hodaka's that I got some small parts off of a few times
That finger joint in the short horizontal piece kills it for me.
Fiberboard. Has a decent r value vs osb. Used for exterior home sheathing. Shitty to use for any other purpose. Toss it. Doubt you'll use it for anything.
I'm working on a remodel right now that has it between the studs and lap siding. It was pretty sketchy removing load bearing walls and installing up-set beams to carry most of the second floor. Especially when you think about how much sheer strength that stuff actually provides. But it does make it really easy to re-frame window and door openings.
I have sanded a lot of epoxy; your paper is saturated, or more likely, if you look at the surface of the paper, there will be many clumps of epoxy; either change the pad, or take a wire brush and knock the clumps off the pad to extend its life a bit. If you don’t want to change the paper/pad/mesh (whatever best describes what you have on the front of your sander) every five minutes, your epoxy sanding time will be spent approximately 60/40% clearing your pad and sanding. I’ve tried many different ways to clear those epoxy nodules and the only really effective way is to use mesh discs and pull them off every time you see these swirls, then brush them with a wire brush, takes a few minutes to get them all off. It’s a hellish job cause of this.
I like to use compressed air and a wire brush to clean my sandpaper. From my random orbital, to hand sanding blocks. I just blast them with air every few minutes and then get the real stubborn clogs with a wire brush. Makes sand paper last at least 10x longer than it would if you just toss it when it gets loaded up.
Take your shit apart and write your name on the inside too. People are known to remove that shit to try and get away with it
I use an engraver on all my tools, if there's room, I put my phone number and "not for sale" somewhere. I had someone use a soldering iron or something to try and melt away the engraving on one of my drills and all I had to do was use a little sandpaper and sand where it was melted and my name came back. I did it right in front of the guy and he then tried to accuse me of engraving my name on his tool. I've been lucky before and had a pawn shop call me and ask if I was missing an almost brand new bosch worm drive saw that had my phone number engraved on it.
how many should you have per person? lol (not a construction worker, just enjoy browsing this page)
Our Porta-shitters have a sticker in them that says 1 unit can handle 7 people if cleaned weekly. So that's what we usually do. But in residential construction, it's pretty rare that we have more than 7 people on the site full time for a week
If you don't have at least 1 section with a 24/12 and 4 bastard hips, you are doing it wrong
I watched a guy drive a ground rod into a 3 phase 480 conduit. Blew the rotohammer off the end of it. He was known as Hot Rod from that day on.
Did you consider using a sock? Would you go with a sock next time?
I was out pheasant hunting with my son and a friend years ago, my kid was maybe 8, he had been right behind us and then I turn around and he is gone, so I yell for him and in this little nervous voice, I hear "yeah?" And can barely see the top of his head pop up, so I yell back "are you taking a shit?" He responds with the same "yeah" my buddy starts laughing and I yell back again "are you wearing socks today?" Get another "yeah" from him and at this point my buddy and I are laughing hysterically and all I could do was yell "ok, good". He is 16 now and every time we go over to my friends house for a BBQ or something, he has to try to embarrass my kid and tell that story to everyone there.
That's gonna be a tough match. We installed some textured white oak flooring similar to what you have in stain color and texture, I had to make a few pieces of shoe molding and a threshold to match it. I ended up taking a sample of the flooring and a scrap of white oak to my local miller paint store and had a custom stain made to match it. It wasn't perfect, but it was close enough that nobody noticed. Another issue is that the flooring isn't smooth, I used a stiff wire brush to try and remove some of the softer grain and a sanding block to give it a micro bevel to try to match it. The sheen on a smooth sanded board and one that has a little texture will look different too. If you have any of the wood left, make sure to have them do a couple samples for you to approve before letting them try again. I would also recommend using a floor finish, instead of whatever cheap, gloss Polyurethane they used. For oil based finish, I like pro-kote. It's durable and relatively inexpensive, to properly put a satin of flat finish on though, it takes 2 coats of semi-gloss first and then a coat of satin if you want it done correctly.
Buy a new tire, rotate the front to the rear, new tire on the front. Your cornering will suffer more from less traction on the front than the rear.
I need to do that, just for all my chisels, but I'm billing for my time. The amount of times that someone has taken one of my good chisels without asking and put it back looking like a serrated bread knife drives me insane. I have cheap chisels just for that, that get sharpened on a belt sander, not mirror finished on a strop.
I remodeled a motel about 10 or 12 years ago, the previous owners lived there and did all their repairs themselves. There was a ton of shit like this that I had to tear out, not to mention the stuff you couldn't see, like plumbing and electrical. They were staying at the motel until their knew motel was finished being built and there was a broken pipe, so the motel manager called them, just to ask them how to turn the water off and they went up and "fixed" it. They had a copper pipe running along the outside of the building, no insulation, it was the middle of winter and it had split the pipe, so they cut a section out and soldered in a new piece, after they were done, I went to check out what they did, this 40 foot run of pipe didn't have a single piece that was over a foot long before their was a coupler. I ended up getting every piece of pipe I could in the entire place. It was a nightmare.