I would accept, with the caveat that if you’ve had the judgment for a year or so, you are likely entitled to pre and post judgment interest. Besides interest, I don’t think there’s a reason not to take. Ultimately, the landlord’s lawyer should want you to sign a release of judgment, which will be filed with the court, so there’s really no difference.
Thanks for pointing this out. The interest started from May 6th, 2022 to the current day. I did the max allowable which is 6%. It seems that the best option would be for me to accept the payment. I have no real reason to deny it other than to be a thorn in the side of the landlord.
I don’t think your time off would be recoverable ever, but your costs of court (filing fees, service of citation, etc.) are generally recoverable if included in the judgment. All that is to say, your damages now (inconvenience, court costs, interest) are pretty much confined to what the judgment contains and says you’re entitled to, as it’s a judicial declaration of the outcome of the dispute between you and the landlord, both as to liability and damages.
Looks like that new alternator isnt charging the battery or there is a bad connection somewhere. This happened when I was riding with my dad in his mazda cx9 and the alternator stopped charging the battery. Every sensor and dash light went haywire because there wasnt enough voltage. This looks very similar. You could just be unlucky with the new alternator. Some of the cheaper remans are absolutley horrible.
The cars last, espcially the non performance variant. Rust is a issue for all cars though. I have seen 380k mile examples that are still on the road. If it is only 211k miles and about a 1k a year for maintenance I would say keep it. The car market is volatile still and car prices havent dropped very much.
Other have given you a earful enough already about the wrong subreddit, so I wont. The ecm feel like the common denominator as the battery voltage is relayed to the ecm. The brake switch should be checked out to see if it works but if it does, I wouldnt touch it. If you are going more performance side of things, you could always upgrade to a tunable ecu for late down the road when you have larger needs for the car. Just an idea.
Under the hood, passenger side I think, and stamped into the frame on the strut tower. Also, I have never heard of a officer doing a VIN check, seems like a hassle for no reason.
Looks nice out.. drive her.. I'm lucky to live in socal.. I only dont drive when it rains, but thats due to the CAI... What size wheel/tires you running.. those look good from the rear...
Got to 17x9 +35. The fenders do not look rolled but they could be. I see that its not slammed to the point it cant handle. Actually the ride height looks about right for near optimum handling.
You sure you have the correct part? I used a cheapo o2 sensor and it wouldnt read right. I would say get a denso o2 sensor. How are you clearing the codes? Maybe check fuses though I would imagine that the fuses would run both.
Not sure a 2.3 would fit IMO. They don't particularly fit in NC's without messing with the firewall due to the HPFP, and NC can practically accept any other variant of the motor with no issues.
Yeah you are not wrong. I have read that the hpfp would not fit because it would hit the firewall. They just come in lots of cars and so are easier to get.
Heres how I did it. Jack up front end. Place jack stands under frame rails. Remove wheels. Place wheels under car so on case the jackstands slip you dont die. Disconnect lines from strut I think it a 10mm and a 12mm. Disconnect tie rod ends from strut. Have replacement strut ready to go next to you. Remove strut bolts that hold strut onto knuckle. The knuckle most likely will not fall away yet. Now go up and remove the nuts that hold the strut onto the car. Now it might fall away so be holding onto it. Gets back under and support the control arm with knees, jack etc. Remove old strut. Install new strut. Reinstall in reverse order.
These are cheap and they reflect that in the qaulity. Precision Workz retrofits them to a good standard but they are like 500 or more. Find some that in the 400 range and it should ok in qaulity. Get oem used off of FB and refurbish them yourself fir cheaper.
Yes 🙌, we’ll yes/no I never had a sensor when the car got Dynoed so it’s just locked to 0 in the computer. It doesn’t have to be in the pipe if your just trying to get by with what you have. It works best in the pipe tho for data collection and safety’s on timing maps. I just didn’t think about it being that big of a deal when I first built the car.
Lol, so it is installed but I didn’t know that the car needed the intake air temp sensor to actually phase the cam. So the car currently is running no cam angle, I just haven’t had time to mess with that and the tune.
Since it going to be on a k24a1 or a4 with 12.5cr and forged rods and I am going with a 4p ported oil pump, what do you think I could safely set limiter too?
You are correct. 4piston racing sells a ported rsx oil pump that you opt to inlcude a install kit for k24a or k24z3 i think. Drag cartel sells the s2k modified oil pump if thats your thing.
I would accept, with the caveat that if you’ve had the judgment for a year or so, you are likely entitled to pre and post judgment interest. Besides interest, I don’t think there’s a reason not to take. Ultimately, the landlord’s lawyer should want you to sign a release of judgment, which will be filed with the court, so there’s really no difference.
Thanks for pointing this out. The interest started from May 6th, 2022 to the current day. I did the max allowable which is 6%. It seems that the best option would be for me to accept the payment. I have no real reason to deny it other than to be a thorn in the side of the landlord.
I don’t think your time off would be recoverable ever, but your costs of court (filing fees, service of citation, etc.) are generally recoverable if included in the judgment. All that is to say, your damages now (inconvenience, court costs, interest) are pretty much confined to what the judgment contains and says you’re entitled to, as it’s a judicial declaration of the outcome of the dispute between you and the landlord, both as to liability and damages.
I figured as much. Thanks for the input! I really wish I could be a lawyer and know all of these things.
Looks like that new alternator isnt charging the battery or there is a bad connection somewhere. This happened when I was riding with my dad in his mazda cx9 and the alternator stopped charging the battery. Every sensor and dash light went haywire because there wasnt enough voltage. This looks very similar. You could just be unlucky with the new alternator. Some of the cheaper remans are absolutley horrible.
The cars last, espcially the non performance variant. Rust is a issue for all cars though. I have seen 380k mile examples that are still on the road. If it is only 211k miles and about a 1k a year for maintenance I would say keep it. The car market is volatile still and car prices havent dropped very much.
Other have given you a earful enough already about the wrong subreddit, so I wont. The ecm feel like the common denominator as the battery voltage is relayed to the ecm. The brake switch should be checked out to see if it works but if it does, I wouldnt touch it. If you are going more performance side of things, you could always upgrade to a tunable ecu for late down the road when you have larger needs for the car. Just an idea.
I personally don’t think so. The NC is better for the similar prices. But buy what you want
🛳️
Good lord. I want to do this. How difficult was it? I bought a nb with rod knock and am curious.
All of the work is in the prep.
Thanks for the reply! Thats a treasure trove of knowledge, I saved it. Did you re use most of the internals or did you opt for a more "built" engine?
Silver 🗿🗿🗿🗿🗿
That’s not even a functioning website
Not entirely I will admit, but it worked enough for me to get my seats. But they have several sets of type r wheels.
No, literally it’s not a website lol
Fuck me I had the link wrong. Anyways here you go
Under the hood, passenger side I think, and stamped into the frame on the strut tower. Also, I have never heard of a officer doing a VIN check, seems like a hassle for no reason.
Looks nice out.. drive her.. I'm lucky to live in socal.. I only dont drive when it rains, but thats due to the CAI... What size wheel/tires you running.. those look good from the rear...
Got to 17x9 +35. The fenders do not look rolled but they could be. I see that its not slammed to the point it cant handle. Actually the ride height looks about right for near optimum handling.
17x9 rpf1s, anythingless wide ts-5.
I believe 05-06 struts are counter wound springs? Correct me if I’m wrong someone but I do know the struts are different between the two model years
You ar correct.
Hows the handling feel and with what other suspension mods do you have?
You sure you have the correct part? I used a cheapo o2 sensor and it wouldnt read right. I would say get a denso o2 sensor. How are you clearing the codes? Maybe check fuses though I would imagine that the fuses would run both.
Any one that the autoparts store says can fit.
I am sorry for your dad. This can't be easy on anyone.
What ecoboost can you swap into a Miata? Always thought they’d be a riot with the 1.6. The 2.0 might be a bit sketchy, it’s a torquey brute.
I've seen the 2.3 bet the best in terms of swapping.
Not sure a 2.3 would fit IMO. They don't particularly fit in NC's without messing with the firewall due to the HPFP, and NC can practically accept any other variant of the motor with no issues.
Yeah you are not wrong. I have read that the hpfp would not fit because it would hit the firewall. They just come in lots of cars and so are easier to get.
The Donger has spoken! My suspension is on POINT after taking the advice you gave to someone in another discussion, so Enkei it is! Thanks a lot man!
Could you link the post about suspension?
If done right and not a hack job, it should be reliable as the original engine. The k24a2 is the prefered swap.
Heres how I did it. Jack up front end. Place jack stands under frame rails. Remove wheels. Place wheels under car so on case the jackstands slip you dont die. Disconnect lines from strut I think it a 10mm and a 12mm. Disconnect tie rod ends from strut. Have replacement strut ready to go next to you. Remove strut bolts that hold strut onto knuckle. The knuckle most likely will not fall away yet. Now go up and remove the nuts that hold the strut onto the car. Now it might fall away so be holding onto it. Gets back under and support the control arm with knees, jack etc. Remove old strut. Install new strut. Reinstall in reverse order.
Yeah I forgot to mention jack stands. Even so, I place the wheels under it so on case the stands fail, i should be mostly ok.
What would you recommend then? The Anzo ones are the only other ones I can find that are more expensive
These are cheap and they reflect that in the qaulity. Precision Workz retrofits them to a good standard but they are like 500 or more. Find some that in the 400 range and it should ok in qaulity. Get oem used off of FB and refurbish them yourself fir cheaper.
Yes 🙌, we’ll yes/no I never had a sensor when the car got Dynoed so it’s just locked to 0 in the computer. It doesn’t have to be in the pipe if your just trying to get by with what you have. It works best in the pipe tho for data collection and safety’s on timing maps. I just didn’t think about it being that big of a deal when I first built the car.
I would have thought that the car sensed the temp and pulled timing cam angle through the ect sensor. Hmm I wonder if you can trick it.
Lol, so it is installed but I didn’t know that the car needed the intake air temp sensor to actually phase the cam. So the car currently is running no cam angle, I just haven’t had time to mess with that and the tune.
What?! Is that really how it phases the cam? That means if the iat sensor is not actually in the intake, the cam angle doesnt change?
New chain and tensioner. And make sure you preload the tensioner! I go for 3 clicks.
Since it going to be on a k24a1 or a4 with 12.5cr and forged rods and I am going with a 4p ported oil pump, what do you think I could safely set limiter too?
Ah, I may be wrong in the ported part lol thought I heard it somewhere
You are correct. 4piston racing sells a ported rsx oil pump that you opt to inlcude a install kit for k24a or k24z3 i think. Drag cartel sells the s2k modified oil pump if thats your thing.