I have only seen one bone/skull with a point in it that was authenticated. And it is now in the possession of the University of Oklahoma. It is a Bison antiquitous skull with a Calf Creek lodged it.
So the A2 is a great all around muzzle device. Not the best best at anything but is pretty good at both hiding muzzle flash and calming muzzle rise. Until I jumped into the NFA world with cans I swore by the A2. It's 90% of the way there to being as good as some of the nicer comps but hides flash better and 90% as good as the best flash hider but compensates muzzle rise much better. So IMHO you can't beat an A2 birdcage, especially when factoring in cost. Unless you want a can.
I was once at a MG shoot and was shooting my M4 carbine clone on auto and the muzzle climb was crazy. I quickly discovered that my A2 flash suppressor had unscrewed and was upside down (vents on bottom). I turned it back the way I like it, vents up at about 12:30 position (I’m right handed), and it was all good again. It’s amazing how much input the A2 flash suppressor has.
I run a CMMG .22 conversion in a PSA AR carbine. Black dog mags work great with it. Swap the bolt & mag and it’s back to 5.56. Back in the day I ran a Ciener .22 kit in a Bushmaster and also in an M16 I used to have. It ran great too, even on auto. I personally see no benefit in getting a .22-only AR or even an upper when the conversion kits and mags are cheap and you can go back to 5.56 in about two minutes. Others have different opinions, to each his own.
The fact that it's almost completely corroded on the outside and has maybe spent 80 years in the woods until OP found it means it's probably gonners. From a safety perspective I'd still be careful but in response to the comment about getting a prison sentence for possession? I doubt it.
I’d give that at least an 80% chance it would go “bang” if cleaned up a little (so it would chamber) and put in a firearm chambered for .50 BMG and the trigger was pulled. Especially if when you shake it you hear the powder rattling around in it. Which would mean it’s dry inside.
Yeah 100% musket flint. I use the same size flints in my reproduction Brown Bess musket. It’s also the right size for a French Charlesville musket. Very common arms from earliest colonial days to early 1800’s. Also, it’s definitely been used. Someone retouched the edge a few times. Something you need to do to keep it sharp to create good sparks when the front edge hits the frizzen.
Colt 6920 would be a good start, considering Colt's insanely consistent quality control and their adherence to the Technical Data Package. We know it meets the minimum essential standards for achieving basic level function. Good materials, good tolerances, good assembly, good quality control. This makes for adequate longevity, adequate reliability, adequate accuracy, adequate user interface and adequate durability in handling. If you buy them from the right spots you can get them for around 830 right now.
Update—I cleaned the grill sensor, made sure the windshield sensor glass was clean, and made sure my rear tires were inflated to at least 32 psi. (I had been getting low tire pressure warnings on one rear tire when the temps dropped below about 45 degrees F in the mornings.)
I wondered the same. The numbering on the left side of the barrel, where that eagle/globe mark apparently is, is of a distinctly different font than the numbers on the receiver. Which seems unusual. Could this rifle have been rebarreled by the Germans sometime between its original manufacture date and May 1945? Seems like if someone were to fake this mark, that wouldn’t make sense.
I recall seeing threads like this and some said waxing won’t prevent it. I don’t know what the answer is. One thing I wonder about is whether it’s the UV that does it, or is it because the metal/paint gets so hot in the sun?
I got a Lund, seems good, haven’t had any issues with it. Easy to take on & off. I only put it on when I need it (traveling with stuff in the bed when it’s rainy out).
I have only seen one bone/skull with a point in it that was authenticated. And it is now in the possession of the University of Oklahoma. It is a Bison antiquitous skull with a Calf Creek lodged it.
I believe there was a fossilized bison skull found in the Aucilla River, north Florida.
So the A2 is a great all around muzzle device. Not the best best at anything but is pretty good at both hiding muzzle flash and calming muzzle rise. Until I jumped into the NFA world with cans I swore by the A2. It's 90% of the way there to being as good as some of the nicer comps but hides flash better and 90% as good as the best flash hider but compensates muzzle rise much better. So IMHO you can't beat an A2 birdcage, especially when factoring in cost. Unless you want a can.
I was once at a MG shoot and was shooting my M4 carbine clone on auto and the muzzle climb was crazy. I quickly discovered that my A2 flash suppressor had unscrewed and was upside down (vents on bottom). I turned it back the way I like it, vents up at about 12:30 position (I’m right handed), and it was all good again. It’s amazing how much input the A2 flash suppressor has.
How is something like this accurately dated?
Tom Lightsey, expert flint knapper! (That’s the extent of my knowledge of the Lightsey’s.)
I run a CMMG .22 conversion in a PSA AR carbine. Black dog mags work great with it. Swap the bolt & mag and it’s back to 5.56. Back in the day I ran a Ciener .22 kit in a Bushmaster and also in an M16 I used to have. It ran great too, even on auto. I personally see no benefit in getting a .22-only AR or even an upper when the conversion kits and mags are cheap and you can go back to 5.56 in about two minutes. Others have different opinions, to each his own.
I have a pistol named Dana. (Wife is named Dana.)
My MP40 is named “Mirna.”
The fact that it's almost completely corroded on the outside and has maybe spent 80 years in the woods until OP found it means it's probably gonners. From a safety perspective I'd still be careful but in response to the comment about getting a prison sentence for possession? I doubt it.
I’d give that at least an 80% chance it would go “bang” if cleaned up a little (so it would chamber) and put in a firearm chambered for .50 BMG and the trigger was pulled. Especially if when you shake it you hear the powder rattling around in it. Which would mean it’s dry inside.
Yeah 100% musket flint. I use the same size flints in my reproduction Brown Bess musket. It’s also the right size for a French Charlesville musket. Very common arms from earliest colonial days to early 1800’s. Also, it’s definitely been used. Someone retouched the edge a few times. Something you need to do to keep it sharp to create good sparks when the front edge hits the frizzen.
Possibly the weirdest “point” I’ve ever seen.
Thieves aren’t punished these days
This.
Just tell your mom that after you looked into it, it looks like they were not bad ones.
Sounds like a fluff piece to try and get people to "invest" in real estate there.
This
It lives off Maclay rd, on the left before you get to the school.
Yep.
So they’ll get a free new car and yours will be out of pocket lol. In all seriousness that really sucks man sorry it happened
(No one apparently read the “in all seriousness” part.)
2 guns is a “gun collection.”
Colt 6920 would be a good start, considering Colt's insanely consistent quality control and their adherence to the Technical Data Package. We know it meets the minimum essential standards for achieving basic level function. Good materials, good tolerances, good assembly, good quality control. This makes for adequate longevity, adequate reliability, adequate accuracy, adequate user interface and adequate durability in handling. If you buy them from the right spots you can get them for around 830 right now.
“Colt’s insanely consistent quality control?”
Update—I cleaned the grill sensor, made sure the windshield sensor glass was clean, and made sure my rear tires were inflated to at least 32 psi. (I had been getting low tire pressure warnings on one rear tire when the temps dropped below about 45 degrees F in the mornings.)
EAT ALL THE ACID!!!
Excepting the brown acid of course.
1935 k98k should not have any “eagle over globe” markings. For such a rare and desirable code, this sets off alarm bells.
I wondered the same. The numbering on the left side of the barrel, where that eagle/globe mark apparently is, is of a distinctly different font than the numbers on the receiver. Which seems unusual. Could this rifle have been rebarreled by the Germans sometime between its original manufacture date and May 1945? Seems like if someone were to fake this mark, that wouldn’t make sense.
you need an Öberhurpenstizle funnel for that
This, made me laugh out loud.
i’m just happy somebody got it
The funnel is probably made from three separately machined and fitted parts and costs $479.
Nah, looks like it was made in 1970 /s
Yep, so Vietnam war, making this likely taken by a GI from a Japanese officer.
What’s hairy is hammering that pin in on a transferable M16 lower. Done it twice. A-hole like to chewed a hole in the seat of my chair both times.
It could be attributed to people thinking they have automatic headlights but don’t, or who had it but turned that feature off and forgot.
I recall seeing threads like this and some said waxing won’t prevent it. I don’t know what the answer is. One thing I wonder about is whether it’s the UV that does it, or is it because the metal/paint gets so hot in the sun?
I got a Lund, seems good, haven’t had any issues with it. Easy to take on & off. I only put it on when I need it (traveling with stuff in the bed when it’s rainy out).