SilentNavi73


























  1. Thanks for the suggestion, a splitter cable does not do what I need it to unfortunately as each device has a different number of addressable LED’s and I want different patterns on each, which I don’t think a splitter will do as wouldn’t it just copy the same setting to all connected devices?

  2. Thanks for the suggestion, a splitter cable does not do what I need it to unfortunately as each device has a different number of addressable LED’s and I want different patterns on each, which I don’t think a splitter will do as wouldn’t it just copy the same setting to all connected devices?

  3. This has remained true and only gotten worse for Ghost too. I would have loved a Raw S1, but it just is far too expensive and has import fees to the UK. Meanwhile, an NR200P is as cheap as £60 and the Dan A4 H2O was £150 for a gen 4 riser version.

  4. Do you have to pay the import fees separately from the cost of the case on the website? Like is it not included in the shipping etc? Still not sure how it works

  5. I am fairly new to the Apple way of doing things having recently switched. I know apple will reduce the price of previous generation devices if they are going to continue to sell them on the apple store, but what about devices they remove?

  6. At Apple, you'll only be able to purchase them in-store. They are typically discounted by $50-$100, but will be completely unavailable on 9/16.

  7. What about elsewhere? It was my understanding that apple has some kind of control over the pricing at other places other that their own stores as well?

  8. I’m also having this issue, I get around it by using filet tool at the base.

  9. Unfortunately I am printing models that aren't my own for my current project, so can't use that! Thanks though

  10. I dried my filament for several days and the situation did improve, so I am going to leave it in the dry box long term to see if it improves further next time I use it. Thanks for the feedback 👍

  11. You can get matte pla if you want to invest that much into a matte look. Hatchbox carries it.

  12. I have matte filament already and have been printing with it, any additional friction from that finish was more my concern

  13. Run you finger across it in the direction you think there will be friction. Compare the feel with normal pla.

  14. I have tried that, but due to the smooth finish of the PLA and the nature of human skin my skin sticks more to a completely smooth surface, so isnt as reprosentative. Although it does show there is a difference in surfaces hence the question

  15. Lack of flow if esteps are calibrated. It's flow calibrated?

  16. I thought that calibrating E-steps would have meant the flow was in turn calibrated, as from the filament diameter and rate the filament is being fed you would get the flow rate? I have checked the filament diameter is correct as well. Is there something seperate for flow? Maybe it's not as clever as I thought?

  17. Esteps is calibrating the extruder hardware so that it's pushing the exact length of filament you're telling it. Unless you change extruder hardware it won't change.

  18. I tried 105% flow and it seems to have sorted it out, there is the occasional tiny gap but it's so much better and I think if I go much further I will end up over extruding

  19. Could be the Z seam (where the printers goes to the next layer). Is it currently on “random”? The type “corner” will probably make this way less visible.

  20. If it is the z seam is there a good way to clean it up?

  21. I'd say you need to calibrate your printer. Have a look at e-steps and the flow.

  22. The flow as in filament flow? I will do some Googling for e steps

  23. I have nothing to add other than this exact thing happened to me yesterday and I feel your pain

  24. Thanks, I'll try that! I also didn't know there was dedicated Gskill software, I'll have to download that - I'm using my motherboard's RGB software (RGBFusion) which seems to detect it every three or four boots, completely at random haha.

  25. I have an asus board but kept having trouble with it, I have found having the G-skill RGB software installed but disabled on startup seems to do the trick. Must install the required magic in the back end that other software needs but disabling it stops it messing up your colours on startup

  26. So do you just want more travel? I guess what drew you to this bike over the loads of other 170mm travel bikes?

  27. Well I have 160 mm front and back now so wanted to keep a similar amount. Being covid bike buying this bike is available in a reasonable time frame which helps. But its not just that, the spec is great value for money, I love the raw alloy look. And I like the simple no nonsenses designed to be hard build which will hopefully make it nice and cost effective to maintain. If I didn't have slight reservations on geometry it would have been the obvious choice

  28. So, you basically have a similar bike. Other then getting something new and shiny what do you think this bike will do better than your current bike?

  29. I am somewhat going for something a bit different as much as just better but of course you always want an improvement. Also I thought it might be a good idea to upgrade while my current bike still holds some value.

  30. If the frame geometry is not significantly different than your current bike, especially if your current bike has decent components, it wouldn't seem worth it to me. There is nothing wrong with 27.5 inch wheel bikes. Yes, they don't quite have the same roll over capability and top speed, but they are still good bikes. And they benefit with being a bit more playful and maneuverable.

  31. My current bike could do with a beefier front fork, but other than that its pretty good. I just want to upgrade and modernise really but not desperate. And I don't have anything against the 27.5 inch wheels just though it could be fun to try the wagon wheels! I have had a call around my most local shops but haven't got further afield than that.

  32. I think if you're not desperate to upgrade, this is a bad time to do so with the shortage of bikes during a pandemic. The exception is if you can order or buy a new bike first before selling your old bike.

  33. I would be able to buy the new bike before selling the old one if needs be I think, but would have to double check the finances before taking the plunge. I am not desperate to upgrade but figured I would see what's out there just incase the stars were to aline and I find the bike for me.

  34. It's not like it'll really impact cooling performance and the level of showpiece you could achieve would make many jealous

  35. Have to see if I can come up with a good way to do it before I tear it down next, maybe try and incorporate some of the digit into the loop even if it's not all of it

  36. I was in a similar situation and rather than use an adapter, I just cut the molex adapter off and crimped on a SATA type terminal and connector. From the page you linked, the only power source for the pump itself is a single 12v cable, so it would be an easy mod.

  37. Yeah that's also not a bad idea, jusg get scared off when you Google those kind of adapters just people screaming fire hazard! I might be able to fit in the molex cable and I will try, but I am building in an Evolv shift so the only place I have for the spare cable is over there rhe power supply fan is which isn't exactly ideal

  38. SATA can deliver up to 54 watts on the 12v rail.

  39. In theory it should be able to, the 12V rail in a sata connector is split into 3 pins than can supply 1.5A per pin so in theory it should manage it. But it's a fairly close cut thing and theory doesn't always play out

  40. I'm running one in my loop now, with 2 slim 120mm rads, an EK quantum velocity block, and a lot of 90 degree bends. It seems okay but I was thinking about upgrading in the future as although it does the job at the moment I have a feeling a better pump might helps temps and future expansion, but I have no actual hard data to back that up. It is very quiet and I am running mine at 100% all the time

  41. Interesting setup you have there, fitting 3 120mm rads and a pump in that's case is a feat all it's own. Would like to see temps when u finish as I too have this case and have been looking for a good cooling solution since day one.

  42. I know the feeling, still trying to sort mine out without it becoming a money pit

  43. That could possibly fit, has to be used upright so would depend on the height of the bracket. Might just fit but would be touch and go, thanks for the suggestion!

  44. Should have mentioned in the post really, this is being mounted to a rad so something like that isn't ideal for airflow etc. I have considered it though maybe try mounting it away from the rad. Was wondering if there were any more traditional combos that could do the job.

  45. I've seen a build somewhere that did just that, cut the HDD tray and mounted the ek kinetic there with the pump in the back. Iirc you'll still need to mod the back plate to make it fit. I'm hoping to use a diff smaller alphacool pump-res from their server line, since I'm going for an industrial look

  46. I wasn't gonna mod the back plate with to fit it, I was going to mod the sheet where the SSD trays are to have the pump sticking back into the main case :). But it does require some surgery which isn't ideal! I think I have commented on another thread where you linked the alpha cool unit you were going to use, should so the job!

  47. https://builds.gg/builds/silver-glint-24215

  48. Ah okay I didn't see that! Didn't realise that had to be a modded as well. Still tempting but does make me wonder a little more, wonder if different plugs would maybe help. Ngl the polished panels looks amazing, might have to steal that idea. Cheers for the link though will help me out if I do ever need to do it!

  49. From what i cam see, thay software only gives you the ability to control the cpu fan, in my case that would be 1 radiator fan

  50. Amazing youre so helpful!! Im using a kraken x73

  51. Okay, I have just looked at the Kraken x73 product page and it has the following disclaimer at the bottom:

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