1. It is. Still need to do some more tuning. This was the first print with my new cr10 smart


  3. "FUCK WHAT WAS I SUPPOSED TO REMEMBER" so relatable, glad I'm not the only one :)

  4. Haven't had any issues yet, and It most certainly looks cooler. my durkin tactical upper was $200 and the PSA was $119 plus a $60 barrel.

  5. oh and its a psa dagger upper but most of the rounds put through it were on a durkin tactical upper.

  6. Polymaker play pro 215c 60c, calibrated e steps, pid tuned bed and hotend, tightened belts.

  7. My desk which isn't the most sturdy but it's relatively sturdy.

  8. it was my nozzle, replaced it and now it prints fine.

  9. I think you need to be a little more experienced in 3d printing before you start printing firearm parts bro

  10. cope + seeth. also how do i fix the lines?

  11. Send it, with the U-bolt in there it'll be fine.

  12. would I adjust flow rate or is that something else?

  13. The correct way to do it is by adjusting the e-steps for the extruder. The easy way is by tweaking flow rate. If you do it through e-steps and save settings, you won't have to mess with it unless parts start wearing down or you change hardware. If you do it through flow rate, it'll reset each time the printer is powered off.

  14. Yeesh man, this is a subreddit to help people lol, why are you so passive aggressive.

  15. So pretentious. You are saying if someone posted a picture of a bent lead screw nobody would help because it's not a print? I was just confirming if its an issue or not.

  16. Usually this is caused by friction in the trigger or connector bar. You should probably be able to reset the trigger on the first rack by pushing the trigger forward if this is the case. The solution is to file down the contact points on the frame to reduce friction.

  17. They're omitted in the PY2A design so I'd guess they aren't critical.

  18. Esun pla plus 230c 60c ambient temp is pretty cold and interface spacing is .16

  19. Seems like it's probably the cold room it's in according to most replies. I'll reprint with a warmer area.

  20. Turns out it's relatively safe, didn't blow up with 90 rounds through it

  21. Please record when u try it out a d post it please

  22. Is there an internal change at that height? More perimeters or something? If so, try printing outer perimeters first. If not, check the z mechanism at that height, weird that it is so consistent lower down, has a specific bulge area then returns to printing as before that area. If the z caused a shift to the printhead, you'd expect a bulge to one side and an indent on the opposite, not a bulge all the way around though. What does it look like in slicer preview? Do you have a link to the file, I'm curious to take a look at it.

  23. stl, I'm just curious about the structure of the part. I just want to take a look at it, possibly slice it and print in on one of my printers to see how it comes out.


  25. Problem has been solved, thanks everyone!

  26. that would be the cause. to diagnosis the issues, some pictures of the printer would help. Specifically where the x axis connects to the uprights.

  27. I swapped my lead screws upside down and it fixed my issue completely, don't know why or how. Maybe its bent on one side. Currently printing a tall vase print

  28. I assembled it, I'll get pictures as soon as I'm home

  29. That's not an extrusion system problem, it's a motion system problem. Start there and look for things that are loose or wobbling.

  30. when i move my z axes by hand slowly its very loud and grindy sounding but when I move it quickly it moves smoothly, any idea if thats normal?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Author: admin