To be honest and my opinion, if you plan to modify the car in any way shape or form and will end up doing an engine swap. Save your money and buy a base manual. Parts can be swapped out fairly easily and get same end results. If you plan to keep it stock and prestine condition as to collect it cuz a Type S is your favorite car, then 10k isn't a bad deal but still kind of high.
If you are asking about Brand wise, it's a biased answer you'll get. Everyone has their own experiences. Just be smart about what the battery is used for. Everyday driving doesn't require an AGM or high output battery so any brand honestly will be fine. But if you want Size options, that's a whole different world to dive into. Stock uses the 51r, the "r" is because the polarity battery posts (negative and positive posts) are on opposite sides a regular battery would be oriented. I use a 34/78 battery in my Type-S. It is bigger than the 51r so it won't fit the plastic tray but does fit in the metal tray fine. Also the terminal posts are in the same orientation as the 51r. Bigger battery, more power.
That just seems way too far off. I doubt your fender is bent or out of place. It seems more like a headlight issue. Hard to tell you what to look for or fix without seeing how you bolted the headlight back on and how you seated it. Just take your time and make sure it's not sitting on top of any bolts. Also make sure the brackets are placed onto the headlight properly along with proper placement on to the frame itself.
To be fair, i bought the car with some missing headlight hardware. With that being said, no matter how i seat the headlight, it always seems so be off.
Just make sure you have the right brackets and are bolting it up on the correct holes. Take pictures of your brackets on the lights next time you take them off and try to show us where things are lining up. Removing the fender helps but only so much, your lights are too far off for that method to help line up.
Brake light switch behind/by the brake pedal activates a solenoid allowing your shifter to move. If the pedal switch is fine then your shift solenoid could be going bad.
Zero mods at all :/ . Bought it a few months go with 125k miles on it. It threw a vacuum leak code but i as told it was probably the gas cap so i replaced it and cleared the code. Im bringing it in for a diagnostic next week.
Yep like others have said, that is a ground strap. There should be a screw/bolt hole somewhere above the motor mount area, possibly side of wheel well. Fenders fit regardless, but fender liners might give you issues and don't always line up right.
800 for an A3, that's pretty expensive. You can get a k24a2 for roughly the same price. I'd say it's roughly 4-600 for an A3. The only worry for a used A3 is whether it's still in good shape itself or not.
You can continue to ride the oem ones for now, as long as your lowered height isn't too drastic. If it's slammed, I would recommend the RCA Ball joints.
Rebuild the starter, it's actually pretty easy on an RSX starter. Pull it and double check what's worn or scraping. Could be internal parts getting caked up over the years or getting seriously worn out.
I agree. If you're lucky and it's not wearing the magnets unevenly then putting a bit of grease on the inner shaft after cleaning the old residue and gunk should help it.
The air temps not changing could be due to your blend door not functioning properly. Quite common in an RSX as the plastic is 15+ years old. The parasitic draw could be from quite a lot of stuff. If it started after you used your AC it's possible it could be your AC relay staying open and drawing power when the car is off.
If the crash bar behind the bumper is bent out of shape, then yes. If not, then it might be saved. A new hatch, tail lights and bumper cover will cost a couple grand but won't total out the car. Also, did airbags deploy? If they did, that would also total the car.
Good luck. If they total it, it's possible to buy it back and repair it yourself. But might not be worth it. The main thing would be if the airbags deployed. Replacing them and resetting the computer is what costs a lot.
If you buy OEM they are glass lenses. If you buy aftermarket they are most likely polycarbonate lenses. I have ebay/Amazon brand and they work okay. Alignment is decent but could be better and now they get moisture from somewhere. But I've had them for 5+ years and they work well.
Ebay is hit or miss, not always the worst place to buy from but not the best either. I switched to Rockauto for some of my parts. A little more expensive than ebay but warranty is better and communications are better. Plus they are quality parts, even if it's the cheaper brand. But like previous comments, ball joints won't fit for sure and lower control arms most likely won't either. Whatever you decide to choose, good luck.
Koni Yellow struts but make sure your lowering springs are of good quality otherwise you just wasted money. You most likely will have to replace tie rod ends and lower ball joints but if yours are still in decent shape then I'd say ride them until you pop them haha. A small drop shouldn't affect them too bad.
If you don't mind spending money on an exhaust system. You can buy a Yonaka catback, it's a quieter more stock like exhaust or a Revel (Tanabe) medallion. But these cost quite a bit.
I was lucky until this year haha. It took 5 years on Tein Street Advance to pop the OEM ball joints. I went too low, tires were tucked and destroyed my fender liners multiple times haha. Now I'm raised and replacing parts.
Hahahaha. I've replaced them but the replacements never fit right. Plus the ones on my 06 Type-S had an extra part connected to it on the front side of the wheel well that connects to the front bumper. Every other liner I find, even oem ones off another rsx does not mount exactly the same. Am I going crazy?!?!
If it's your daily and you have rodent issues, that's a really bad rodent issue lol. Make sure they aren't living in your headliner or glove box/filter area. There is an opening from the engine bay into the blower motor.
Yeah you can get better wheels for 1000 plus a little more. BUT keep in mind most of these people responding are talking about the WHEELS/RIMS ONLY. Whatever you decide to buy, make sure you wrap it with some quality rubber. Don't go cheap on tires, they will destroy your wheels.
To be honest and my opinion, if you plan to modify the car in any way shape or form and will end up doing an engine swap. Save your money and buy a base manual. Parts can be swapped out fairly easily and get same end results. If you plan to keep it stock and prestine condition as to collect it cuz a Type S is your favorite car, then 10k isn't a bad deal but still kind of high.
If you are asking about Brand wise, it's a biased answer you'll get. Everyone has their own experiences. Just be smart about what the battery is used for. Everyday driving doesn't require an AGM or high output battery so any brand honestly will be fine. But if you want Size options, that's a whole different world to dive into. Stock uses the 51r, the "r" is because the polarity battery posts (negative and positive posts) are on opposite sides a regular battery would be oriented. I use a 34/78 battery in my Type-S. It is bigger than the 51r so it won't fit the plastic tray but does fit in the metal tray fine. Also the terminal posts are in the same orientation as the 51r. Bigger battery, more power.
That just seems way too far off. I doubt your fender is bent or out of place. It seems more like a headlight issue. Hard to tell you what to look for or fix without seeing how you bolted the headlight back on and how you seated it. Just take your time and make sure it's not sitting on top of any bolts. Also make sure the brackets are placed onto the headlight properly along with proper placement on to the frame itself.
To be fair, i bought the car with some missing headlight hardware. With that being said, no matter how i seat the headlight, it always seems so be off.
Just make sure you have the right brackets and are bolting it up on the correct holes. Take pictures of your brackets on the lights next time you take them off and try to show us where things are lining up. Removing the fender helps but only so much, your lights are too far off for that method to help line up.
Brake light switch behind/by the brake pedal activates a solenoid allowing your shifter to move. If the pedal switch is fine then your shift solenoid could be going bad.
[удалено]
If you want to dive into removing components, you can try carefully removing the dash to see if any vent ducts have been obstructed or become broken.
Any mods on your car? An un-tuned car will run rich and kill your mpg. Get yourself an ECU upgrade, it will help.
Zero mods at all :/ . Bought it a few months go with 125k miles on it. It threw a vacuum leak code but i as told it was probably the gas cap so i replaced it and cleared the code. Im bringing it in for a diagnostic next week.
Does your car idle high? It should idle around 900 rpm.
Has anyone felt or experienced any major differences with the extended ball joints? I'm curious and have this same question too.
Yep like others have said, that is a ground strap. There should be a screw/bolt hole somewhere above the motor mount area, possibly side of wheel well. Fenders fit regardless, but fender liners might give you issues and don't always line up right.
Correction........that grounds ON the motor mount.
How much do you want for it?
Lol even though I hate my black I still love my type-s haha
But how much?
Not for sale lol
Goes from the washer bottle to the rear windshield washer.
I thought that hose runs up the A-frame and along the side of the car and into the sunroof area.
It goes along the floor then up the B-pillar.
Cool, I'll have to try digging it out then. I need to see if my tube is clogged or not. Spraying the back is very weak.
You could easily get another k20a3 engine for $800 if you're in the US
800 for an A3, that's pretty expensive. You can get a k24a2 for roughly the same price. I'd say it's roughly 4-600 for an A3. The only worry for a used A3 is whether it's still in good shape itself or not.
ohhhh yea they were popped so i replaced with oem . So i need to get RCA Ball joints
You can continue to ride the oem ones for now, as long as your lowered height isn't too drastic. If it's slammed, I would recommend the RCA Ball joints.
sitting how it is in the picture rn , i wouldnt call it slammed but hopefully i can figure it out . thanks !
If you're not scraping your catalytic converter going over speed bumps then you're okay. Lol. That's how I judge if I'm too low or not.
Rebuild the starter, it's actually pretty easy on an RSX starter. Pull it and double check what's worn or scraping. Could be internal parts getting caked up over the years or getting seriously worn out.
Might even be able to get away with just cleaning and greasing up the gear shaft
I agree. If you're lucky and it's not wearing the magnets unevenly then putting a bit of grease on the inner shaft after cleaning the old residue and gunk should help it.
Trim some of it off and put some real widebody fenders on it haha. Otherwise, live with it lol.
The air temps not changing could be due to your blend door not functioning properly. Quite common in an RSX as the plastic is 15+ years old. The parasitic draw could be from quite a lot of stuff. If it started after you used your AC it's possible it could be your AC relay staying open and drawing power when the car is off.
Im thinking that they will likely total it.
If the crash bar behind the bumper is bent out of shape, then yes. If not, then it might be saved. A new hatch, tail lights and bumper cover will cost a couple grand but won't total out the car. Also, did airbags deploy? If they did, that would also total the car.
Yeah, crash bar is bent. Main body has some. Bending.... Only my 2nd vehicle. I've had it for just 2 years now. Great little car.
Good luck. If they total it, it's possible to buy it back and repair it yourself. But might not be worth it. The main thing would be if the airbags deployed. Replacing them and resetting the computer is what costs a lot.
If you buy OEM they are glass lenses. If you buy aftermarket they are most likely polycarbonate lenses. I have ebay/Amazon brand and they work okay. Alignment is decent but could be better and now they get moisture from somewhere. But I've had them for 5+ years and they work well.
Ebay is hit or miss, not always the worst place to buy from but not the best either. I switched to Rockauto for some of my parts. A little more expensive than ebay but warranty is better and communications are better. Plus they are quality parts, even if it's the cheaper brand. But like previous comments, ball joints won't fit for sure and lower control arms most likely won't either. Whatever you decide to choose, good luck.
Koni Yellow struts but make sure your lowering springs are of good quality otherwise you just wasted money. You most likely will have to replace tie rod ends and lower ball joints but if yours are still in decent shape then I'd say ride them until you pop them haha. A small drop shouldn't affect them too bad.
Where did you buy your steering rack riser? Is that also from SHG.
From Whiteline
Thanks for the response. I appreciate it.
If you don't mind spending money on an exhaust system. You can buy a Yonaka catback, it's a quieter more stock like exhaust or a Revel (Tanabe) medallion. But these cost quite a bit.
Luckily, I’ve been on coilovers for 10+ years & have never need ball joints due to it being lowered.
I was lucky until this year haha. It took 5 years on Tein Street Advance to pop the OEM ball joints. I went too low, tires were tucked and destroyed my fender liners multiple times haha. Now I'm raised and replacing parts.
Oh RIP my fender liners for a decade! Hahahaha!
Hahahaha. I've replaced them but the replacements never fit right. Plus the ones on my 06 Type-S had an extra part connected to it on the front side of the wheel well that connects to the front bumper. Every other liner I find, even oem ones off another rsx does not mount exactly the same. Am I going crazy?!?!
Thanks it's daily driven thus need to get it running asap. Plus fix the root issue how to keep varmints out of my engine.
If it's your daily and you have rodent issues, that's a really bad rodent issue lol. Make sure they aren't living in your headliner or glove box/filter area. There is an opening from the engine bay into the blower motor.
Yeah you can get better wheels for 1000 plus a little more. BUT keep in mind most of these people responding are talking about the WHEELS/RIMS ONLY. Whatever you decide to buy, make sure you wrap it with some quality rubber. Don't go cheap on tires, they will destroy your wheels.
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