1. It has the quietest shutter of any of my cameras, and the only downside to it is the match needle shutter speed indicator is not a red led like on the later models.

  2. In the future, for anyone who might read this in a google search, unless the service is also for the lens or strap, please remove them before sending the camera out.

  3. It's part of a Japanese cultural thing called Chindogu. Daft inventions. I remember seeing this back in the early 90s when it was just a curiosity invented as a way to take panoramas.

  4. The selfie stick concept was used in 1983 by Minolta with the Disc-7 (

  5. I think that's a Vivitar 55mm f2.8 macro lens. Very highly rated for sharpness. Can go to 1:1 macro without extension tubes.

  6. To look at it another way, why would you ever want to shoot program with any of the big aperture lenses? Just do aperture priority. Aperture is a creative control you should be exercising. For any shot, either you want the big aperture brightness/bokeh/softer detail or you don't; you know that better than whatever default assumptions the camera is going to make.

  7. Disagree, the X-700 will shoot at the highest shutter speed first with the widest aperture on Program Mode, aperture priority is best when you need to set your aperture down to achieve more depth of field.

  8. They're the same camera. Same shutter, same accu-matte screen, same winder, same ISO range (XG-M is actually worse because of the +/- function). I think the back is removable on the XG-M but I don't think it's compatible with any other series back, and you can mod the back of the X-370 with force and a screwdriver to fit the back from the X-570 or X-700 for superior handling. I prefer the X-370 because of the on/off switch location and size, and the same thing for the X-570. As for reliability, I've never had a working XG-M (out of four) but I have had four working X-370's (out of seven).

  9. You may have lost the spring that goes behind the ball to keep it pressed against the notches. It's really tiny and should be held in with the grease.

  10. Prism desilvering. It's not repairable without replacing the prism.

  11. Use a jar opener, one that wraps around the rim or the kind that allows a better grip.

  12. MD Zoom 35-70 f3.5 with Macro button. Great lens even if it is only a 2x zoom, it's simple to use and isn't too wide or close at either end. If you want more range, the MD Zoom 28-85 f3.5-4.5 is also a good choice.

  13. I can't wait to get one so I can use my Leica Voigtländer lens for some sweet Leica Voigtländer tonez.

  14. On an SLR the lens will be bigger because it has to sit further away from the focal plane to accommodate the mirror. Since a point and shoot camera does not have a mirror the lens can be closer. Another factor in small lens size for point and shoot cameras is the max aperture, which is usually not that big compared to SLR lenses (for the most part). There are point and shoot cameras with big lenses like the Canon AF35ML or Fuji Natura, though. As for image quality, you probably will not find an 80mm f2.8 lens on a point and shoot. There are zoom lenses that will go that length, but once you get past ~50mm the aperture is probably somewhere around f5.6-f11 when you get to 80mm. Once you get there, the camera by design is going to adjust to get the most depth of field which will reduce image quality.

  15. I got the 4008 emboss from Aki Asahi, it looks like the X-700 leather, just a little shinier. I'm not sure if it's still available.

  16. Any of the SLRs with a lens. The Mamiya will probably be easiest to use, but the Pentax will have more lenses available.

  17. It's designed to be use in Aperture Priority mode, so you just set the shutter speed to "A" and adjust the aperture, using the viewfinder to get an appropriate shutter speed and focusing. If you have a standard 50mm lens, just make sure the shutter speed is over 1/60th second when shooting handheld. The shutter button is touch sensitive, so all you have to do is rest your finger on it to activate the light meter. To focus, align the split line in the middle of the circle in the viewfinder until the two parts meet, and confirm using the ring around it for reference.

  18. Thank you! The circle in the viewfinder has been throwing me off a bit since it's the first time I'm shooting using something like that, hopefully I'll get the hang of it soon

  19. Probably the film but you can test the camera without film to see if the shutter opens and the aperture closes and meter responds to light to be sure it's not the problem.

  20. How do you like that lens? I'm looking for either a 24/2.8 or the 24-35/3.5 zoom. Since the zoom is a little cheaper, I think I would save a little but I don't know if they're comparable.

  21. Not sure how it compares with the 24 prime, I'm pretty sure the prime is sharper, however I always liked the versatility of this lens and I don't really mind the f3.5. For landscape and street photography which is what I do this lens is indispensable. It's quite sharp at 35mm between 5.6 - 11. Not so at the wide end but good enough. This photo was taken at 24mm f8 long exposure on tripod.

  22. I was thinking it would be better for travel photography, the last trip I took my 35-70/3.5 and a Freedom Vista. I would prefer a full frame wide angle lens but the downside would be having to swap lenses or bring another camera, which is why I prefer the zoom lenses.

  23. Film?! Who uses film? We've had digital cameras for 1,000 years!

  24. You may also be able to get your hands on a non-Minolta version like the Centon DF-300, so keep your options open and you might be able to get a good working one without the stress.

  25. Have you tested outside in daylight? If you have to point it at a lamp to get a reading, you may just not have enough light.

  26. It moves a 1.4x teleconverter behind the lens to make the 35/3.5 lens a 50/5.6 lens and back.

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